T & T 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Tom Cecil, Todd Offenbach |
| Submitted By: | Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008 |
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Description P1: Climb the face with many really positive holds past many bolts. About 20 ft below the Kauffman Cardon Ledge, there's a set of shuts. To do the entire route, skip these shuts and head up and left to reach the shuts on the Kauffman Cardon Ledge. A piece or two may be needed here in the last 20 ft to reach the ledge. If you just climb to the first set of shuts, it's a sport route and probably easier than 5.9.
P2: Continue up the face slightly to the left of the belay. A piece or two of gear can be placed before the first bolt. From the bolt, aim for the small overhang, pass 2 more bolts, and climb to the top. Crux is near the overhang.
Location Locate the ramp system 40 ft uphill from the start of Skyline Traverse, this ramp system marks the start of Worrell's Thicket. This is the next line with bolts over from H & H.
Protection bolts, a few pieces of gear. Shuts at top of Pitch 1, belay from tree at the top of Pitch 2. Rap from fixed anchors above Bee Sting Corner about 30 ft to the left of the finish.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Oct 21, 2008
rating: 5.8
| This route is about 1/2 way between Skyline and Worrells. Look for the first bolt very high up with a large tree close to the base. You can either climb straight up to the bolt with no decent gear on thin but solid climbing or traverse in from the ledge system just off the ground on Skyline. Eiter way you run it out a bit. Great climbing, a long pitch if you go all the way to Broadway in one lead, but the clips are a bit of a stretch for short folks.
The intermediate belay was put it to allow rapping this with one rope if I remember correctly. |
By Caleb Efta
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2010
| Fantastic climb! It's not the traditional seneca style either. It's much more sporty.
It is definitely run out throughout the whole climb, but the holds are really positive and the moves are solid. It's very slightly overhanging after the 4th bolt.
We rapped down bee sting, then to a tree then all the way down. Seems like there should be an easier way to go, but we were running out of daylight. |
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.9-
| Great route, with lots of fun movements. Some small gear is helpful to take care of any runouts between bolts.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but in contrast with the route description here when you hit the intermediate belay, you move up and right and then follow a left leaning ramp/crack to reach the shuts on the Kauffman-Cardon Ledge (they're actually kinda up and right from the point where you gain the ledge). Moving left at the intermediate belay would put you on the far left side of the K-C Ledge, to the left of Bee Sting Corner and off route. P2 starts from the shuts and you move up and left, pull the small roof and top out.
Also, this route is actually on the Southeast Corner, not the South End. And as of 19NOV2011 there's a fixed stopper in the middle of P1. |
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