Sword of Damocles 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | J. Gosling and Larry Harrell, March 1968 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006 |
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Description This is the third crack to the right of the Captain Hook chimney. The "sword" (loose flake in the crack) that gave the route its name is gone. It is a mediocre crack and chimney route. To descend, walk right to a tree and rappel 160' to the ground.
Protection standard rack
| Comments on Sword of Damocles |
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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.9
| Not a standout but it has some intriguing moves in the flare. Not a bomb, in fact you could do much worse. |
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 8, 2006
| This was an intereting climb with hard moves right at the start and then in the flared chimney. A bolt there protects the awkward moves. Definitely worth doing! |
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 1, 2008
| I enjoyed this a lot more than Hernia, which I thought had only a single interesting move. Sword had several places where you had to think a bit, which I don't mind doing now and then. Plus the huge belay ledge on top was wonderfully shady and had a great view. |
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
May 4, 2009
| That chimney was a hoot. Bring your offwidth technique to this party. |
By mmurduff
Jul 11, 2009
| Very thought provoking. Used heal toe smearing in the flared chimney. Exiting the Chimney was the Crux in my opinion. |
By Trad Nanny
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.9
| Thank god for the bolt! Hip scumming appeared to work best in the chimney. |
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