Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Sword of Damocles 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J. Gosling and Larry Harrell, March 1968
Page Views: 1,251
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is the third crack to the right of the Captain Hook chimney. The "sword" (loose flake in the crack) that gave the route its name is gone. It is a mediocre crack and chimney route. To descend, walk right to a tree and rappel 160' to the ground.

Protection 

standard rack


Comments on Sword of Damocles Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not a standout but it has some intriguing moves in the flare. Not a bomb, in fact you could do much worse.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 8, 2006

This was an intereting climb with hard moves right at the start and then in the flared chimney. A bolt there protects the awkward moves. Definitely worth doing!
By Michael Ybarra
From: on the road
Jul 1, 2008

I enjoyed this a lot more than Hernia, which I thought had only a single interesting move. Sword had several places where you had to think a bit, which I don't mind doing now and then. Plus the huge belay ledge on top was wonderfully shady and had a great view.
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
May 4, 2009

That chimney was a hoot. Bring your offwidth technique to this party.
By mmurduff
Jul 11, 2009

Very thought provoking. Used heal toe smearing in the flared chimney. Exiting the Chimney was the Crux in my opinion.
By Tradoholic
Mar 25, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thank god for the bolt! Hip scumming appeared to work best in the chimney.
By Ian Z
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 2, 2013

In my opinion a cooler climb than the higher rated "Hernia" climb to the right.
By armand rollice
From: rancho cucamonga
Sep 9, 2013

The Sword is an excellent climb. The start has delicate moves protected by small gear. The chimney, not to difficult o/w is great, use chicken wing left side in. This climb has everything!