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El Malpais
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Sword of Cimmeria 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Baltz & Dahrling, 1977
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: David Baltz on Nov 9, 2009

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Obvious, varied, and classic.


A two pitch dihedral. The first pitch contains the 5.10+ crux--a layback/undercling around a large flake. Belay in the bowels of the chimney above the crux. The second pitch tunnels up the chimney then exits out through a slot above the scary-looking roof and finishes up the hand crack to the summit.


At the far back of the Natural Arch Canyon is a long left-facing dihedral hidden from view until you are almost to Rotten Peach. It is directly across the ravine from Rotten Peach and faces south.


medium to large cams

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