Sword In The Stone 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Jens Amudsen |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Catches a bit of sun, but definitely a year-round climb. |
| Submitted By: | andy patterson on Nov 16, 2012 |
| |
Disney, before the fall.
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Description I love this route. It provides stacks of beautiful hand and foot movements, good rock, and elegant positioning. The crux comes low, and the last 15 meters pack consistent and engaging 5.9 climbing. Enjoy!
Historical issues:
It should be noted that this part of the Renaissance Crag shows signs of past climbing attention. I found an extremely sketchy 1/4" thick bolt that was drilled only 1/4" in to the sandstone patina. It took about 2 or 3 turns with my fingers to remove it. I have no idea when or by whom this bolt was placed. I've asked around (Dave Griffith and Steve Edwards, for example), and no one seems to know. What's more, I've no idea what line of travel that ill-fated bolt professed to protect. In any case, I'm not the only one who thought this area worth climbing.
Also, to the left of the second bolt of this route, you can see a Metolius hanger protecting a bottomed-out seam. Again, someone has been here before me. I can only guess that this bolt protects the start of a 5.8ish crack/dihedral to the left of Sword and the Stone.
Location On the left side of the Renaissance Man Crag area. Starts at the lower left end of the big slab.
Protection 8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
| Comments on Sword In The Stone |
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By Richard Shore
Nov 16, 2012
rating: 5.9+
| I was fortunate to grab a couple early ascents of this route (before all the lead bolts were installed). It is a beautiful, sweeping patina face, with excellent stone. Probably the longest, most sustained route of its grade in SB. 5.9++. Quality-wise, I can only compare it to a more challenging version of Face Lift 5.7 at San Ysidro. Not as steep as Great Race 5.10a and I think it's a touch easier as well. Go do it! |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 17, 2012
| Agreed: one of the finest of its grade in SB.
There is a slightly loose section near the last bolt, but you can avoid the manky holds quite easily. If you're breaking in to the 5.9+/5.10a leading game, this is a great route to try. |
By Alexander B.
From: Ojai CA
Dec 18, 2012
| Looking forward to getting on this one in a few days! |
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