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Sport Climber's Demise, The T 
Sword In The Stone S 
Tunnel of Love T 

Sword In The Stone 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bruce Hildenbrand and Ron Olsen, 9/20/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 5,735
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (216)
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Getting ready for the crux.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Sword In The Stone is a cool new sport route on the First Tier of Avalon. It climbs the face and knife-edge arete left of Mists of Avalon.

Start 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below some broken slabs with loose rock. Scramble up the slabs to a ledge below a small overhang. Climb up and left past three bolts (cracked horizontal hold in here) and several small overhangs to a stance at the base of the arete. Work up the knife-edge arete (crux) past three more bolts to a bulge. Clip a final bolt and cruise to the anchor.

Location 

On the First Tier of Avalon, 25' left of Mists of Avalon, below a knife-edge arete.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. All bolts were drilled by hand by "Bosch-less Bruce".


Photos of Sword In The Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Glory!
Glory!
Rock Climbing Photo: Sword In The Stone  If that is you, let me know, I...
Sword In The Stone If that is you, let me know, I...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sword In The Stone.
Sword In The Stone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Dillon at the crux on the arete.
Peter Dillon at the crux on the arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Hildenbrand cranking the fun moves past the ...
Bruce Hildenbrand cranking the fun moves past the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ron Olsen stepping up to a great horizontal edge a...
Ron Olsen stepping up to a great horizontal edge a...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the trail at the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: View from the trail at the start of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: A close-up of the knife-edge arete.
BETA PHOTO: A close-up of the knife-edge arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sword In The Stone and The Mists of Avalon, as see...
BETA PHOTO: Sword In The Stone and The Mists of Avalon, as see...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sword In The Stone.  Climb up and left past severa...
BETA PHOTO: Sword In The Stone. Climb up and left past severa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Hildenbrand moving onto the arete on the fir...
Bruce Hildenbrand moving onto the arete on the fir...

Comments on Sword In The Stone Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Malaty
From: Broomfield, CO
May 2, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

It was definitely fun, awkward, but fun.

It requires some weird moves, but if climbed correctly it can make it easier.

The back side of the arete is really crappy, but it gets the job done.
By L G
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2010

Lotsa fun with a variety of moves up the face then using the sharp arete. Sensibly protected.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Didn't think the arete was all that sharp. Fun climb.
By Alan Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2010

Very nicely bolted- just where you want them to be.
By MATTY D
Sep 28, 2011

Definitely fun and, as mentioned earlier, bolts placed exactly where you would want them. Push through the arete and be rewarded with a nice pocket below the last bolt, then you are home free. A grade of 5.9 or a lower end 9+ feels accurate. Great route and amazing area for intermediate climbers.
By Mitch Musci
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 11, 2012

Lower end 9+? I laughed out loud. How many hairs are you gonna split?
By Dan White
From: Western CO
Jul 3, 2012

It's a nice climb, it starts with somewhat wandering moves on blocks to the arete. Watch out for z-clipping on the arete, the bolts are extremely close together.
By Matthew Windchime
From: denver
Jun 23, 2016

Fun route, but the first bolt is kind of in a bad spot. It's super easy, so you will probably never fall, but the bolt is at the edge of a piece of stone, so the biner on your draw kinda lies flat over the edge. It's super easy terrain up to like the third bolt, but if you did fall between the first and second, you could pretty easily snap your biner in half. Consider threading a sling through it and putting a biner on the end to avoid that.
By Keith W
Jul 6, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Pretty nice climb! Great holds all over. Get on it!

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