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El Rito Traditional Area
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Swollen 
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Swollen 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 516
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Nov 4, 2007
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The good holds are there, just reach. Topping out ...

Description 

Swollen is a second pitch variation to The Big E on enjoyable, well-protected face climbing. No doubt this face has been climbed before but we hadn't heard of it so we'll be presumptuous and give it a name and a rating. Nice jugs and incuts with just enough cracks and pockets for protection with a steep face finish make this very fun.


Location 

From the bolted anchor atop P1 of The Big E, step immediately right and go straight up the face between the left-facing corner of The Big E and the right facing corner of Juniper Overhang. About 2/3rds of the way up the angle backs off for a moment but then goes nearly vertical with nice, positive holds and small pro just when you want it. Finish straight up to the bolted anchor on a nice ledge at the top of the cliff.


Protection 

Small to medium camalots and nuts. I don't use tri-cams but I saw a couple of pockets that would take small to medium sized tris nicely. This face goes straight up to the bolted anchor atop P2 of Juniper Overhang.



Photos of Swollen Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up the face that is Swollen. The left-facing corner that is pitch 2 of The Big E is on the left and to the right of this face is Juniper Overhang.
Looking up the face that is Swollen. The left-faci...
Amy near the top of Swollen (Aug. 9, 2009).
Amy near the top of Swollen (Aug. 9, 2009).
Comments on Swollen Add Comment
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By Minesh Bacrania
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13

Excellent variation on the standard "Big E" route. Gear placements are a bit scarce for the easier climbing, but there's good (small) stuff where you need it.

By scotthsu
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 9, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Hadn't done this variation before. Nice route, maybe one of my new favorites pitches at the trad area. Good exposed climbing with holds and pro just where you need them. I thought the climbing was 5.6 or easier until the final headwall with a 5.7 finish.

By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jun 12, 2011

Very nice!

This can also be done after climbing the first pitch of Juniper Overhang. From that belay, head up and left on runout but easy terrain until you can see to the left the bolts at the top of Big E's pitch 1. We had a 60 meter rope - not sure a 50 meter rope would make it.