FA Swizzlestick Legs 5.11c Climber: Peter L Scott ...
Balancy and technical face and arete climbing. Little spicy with a runout between 3rd and 4th bolt. Holds are sometimes difficult to find but they are there and they're decent. The question is: can you hold on long enough to find them?
Belay from the ledge with a bolt. Frome here step right and go up the face. You could start 40ft lower and add a pumpy 5.10c crack (bring medium cams and nuts).
The name of the climb comes from Tom Waits's song "Putnam County":
And they'd suck on Coca Colas, yeah, and be spittin' Day's Work
Until the moon was a stray dog on the ridge and...
And the taverns would be swollen until the naked eye of 2 a.m.
And the Stratocasters slung over the Burgermeister beer guts
And swizzle stick legs jackknifed over naugahyde stools... yeah
Face on the pillar to climber's left of Jim's Crack. The easiest way to locate the bolts is from the top of Jim's Crack. Bolt for belay anchor is at the grassy ledges left of the arete.
4 bolts, 1 additional bolt at the belay. Small cams (yellow Alien) useful to reduce the runout between bolt 3 and 4.
FA was by Peter L Scott Not Chris Holbeck(he is a friend of mine and will confirm this)
The name comes from Tom Waits lyrics
Originally there was a minivan size block at the top split by a finger crack. The year after the FA the block parted ways with the cliff. The bolts were hand drilled on rappel. It would be O.K. with me if someone added a bolt towards the top where the block once was.
This was never meant to be a sport route. It was a mixed gear route. Glad to see someone climbing it.
Take a yellow Alien/orange TCU/.4 BD if youd like to protect the run out between the third and fourth bolts. The pro goes in a hard to see crack that is behind a large wrapper jug on the face right of the arÍte.
Also, take a runner for the first bolt to minimize rope drag.