Swiss Cheese was the first bolted line one encountered upon entering the canyon proper (before all of the new bolting). Generally speaking there is a pile of cheater stones at the bottom of the route to assist in the direct variation. The stones are there to overcome the overhang, and avoid tumbling into the hollow/cave below. These cheater stones may be considered a sage tactic by some, and in my humble opinion are more sketchy than pulling the move outright. The actual route starts in the corner (getting up the corner and over to the first bolt is the crux) to the right and traverses into the route. The route proper is slightly off angle and follows a line of great patina holds, that seem to define the phrase "great patina holds" - up the beautiful sandstone wall. This is a great route, especially for someone learning to lead.
4 Bolts to a pair of chains - a stick clip might be useful for the first bolt.
Did my first sport lead on this and it was pretty amazing. Great patina holds and the moves just feel real good.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Aug 13, 2007
I'd consider stick clipping the first bolt. The crux is basically going to the first, after which it's pretty cruiser edge climbing to the top. The huge pile of cheater stones used to help in getting to the first. The stones are gone, but it seems like the route was bolted for the "cheater start." So, stick clip it.
this route is awesome, and easy to change climb to climb. a stick clip is mandatory, with a wicked fall being, well, wicked. there are many subtle differences if you climb slightly right or slightly left of the obvious line up the bolts, but they all are about 5.8 to 5.9 climbs. fun stuff.
I'm in the process of updating/replacing the anchors on Swiss Cheese. They were beginning to look pretty manky and I'm pretty sure those chains were there in '98 or '99 when I first climbed here. I left them in usable condition when I left Saturday, but I want to yank the old bolt, patch the hole, update the chains/hardware and camouflage the the whole setup. It's a work in progress - so at least wait until it's done to flame me for it.