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Swinging Sirloin 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wright, Hanson, Lane, Anderson, 10/89? 1994?
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 12, 2001
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Clipping just past the crux.
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Description 

The furthest route left on the Falls Wall is a steep little thing that arcs a bit left on sharp edges and thin pockets. This was named during the FA when Mike Lane took a whipper lifting his belayer halfway up the route. It has nice, continuous climbing with good, solid climbing.


Protection 

Four draws and a rope.



Photos of Swinging Sirloin Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Leonard bagging the FFA, Sept. 1988.
Eric Leonard bagging the FFA, Sept. 1988.
Pat Burwick swinging his own sirloin on Swinging Sirloin.
Pat Burwick swinging his own sirloin on Swinging S...
Swinging on Swinging.
Swinging on Swinging.
Last bomb to the top bolts.
Last bomb to the top bolts.
Comments on Swinging Sirloin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Cavallaro
Feb 24, 2008

Classic! May be the most sustained climb of it's grade in CWC. Don't sally out right at the 3rd bolt, but stay straight on the face. Climbs a lot longer and better than it looks. I hucked meat.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Feb 24, 2008

Just revisited this route today (with Mr. Cavallaro) after about 18 years. Forgot how fun it was. There's like 4 or 5 .11A moves in a row, culminating with one solid .11 move to a cobble; then 3-4 .10 moves to the anchors.

Those anchors need to be reset; we were under the influence of some goofy idea from Climbing Mag at the time regarding offsetting the anchors to better equalize the forces.

If you visit this wall to work on Rim Job or Bones, don't miss this. Doesn't look like much, but its fun.

Incidentally, this was the first route by the Anderson/Wright/Leonard/Lane crew at CWC, and while this was getting tapped in (by hand, which influenced both Tod and Richard to buy power drills) we met Tom Hanson. Kinda historic in CWC terms.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Feb 24, 2008

Wow, that was weird, Chris. We posted within a minute of each other. Wonder if anyone else will ever read this.

By Tom Hanson
Feb 25, 2008

Swinging Sir Lane!

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Feb 26, 2008

I can't believe it took 20 years to connect that pun, good job Tom! And yes, once again I was swinging all over it and nearly pulled Brian off his belay deck, fortunately he weighs more than Richard did.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 18, 2008

FA - Add TA - October 1989, hand drilled I think.