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Swinging Chimps 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Robertson and Ed Quesada?
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

This is a boulder problem on a rope, fun for those who have simian tendancies. It is located about 200 feet prior to the Village Idiot/Karma Mechanic area, and about 150 feet after Minimum Security. Locate a juggy roof start on the left side of a blunt arete, with a thin short bolted face to the right (Onomatopoeia, 5.12a). Clip the first bolt and yard your way to the second, it's cake from there.

Protection 

4 bolts to anchors.


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By invisible ghost
From: Bailey
Jan 21, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A friend of mine broke off a hand hold between the 1st and 2nd bolts last weekend. I tried it afterward and it felt a lot harder than I remembered, although it's been years since I've done it.... May now be a major sandbag at 11a - curious to hear what others think.
By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

In the book, it calls this a 11b and I agree with that. I found between the first and second bolt was a little weird, but the holds were huge, at least I thought they were, again I am 6 foot. Bob Robertson and Ed Quesada had the FA.
By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 20, 2011

Jugs, my ass. Jug match, bust out right to a mediocre hold with right and dyno your ass off to a sharp ass edge. Oh yeah, did I mention you have to do this with crappy feet that keep popping off because it's so polished? The hold you're throwing too might be a little bit better than latching onto a ginsu knife. Basically 2-3 moves with a 5.9 finish.
By Wally
From: Denver
Mar 28, 2011

This route is way harder than rated, the broken hold between the first and second clip is very likely the reason.

Wally

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