This route starts with a crux mantle past the first bolt onto a large sloping ledge. Anyway you try it, it is a solid 5.11 move that has befuddled many a 5.12 leader. The real trick is avoiding the "Beached Whale Syndrome", flopping around until you slide off backwards. From the ledge, nice overhanging reaches between 5.10 jugs take you to the anchors.
Definitely a nice little boulder problem type route. After the mantle, there are jugs to the top. The mantle can be ommitted as mentioned with heel hook but what fun is that ? (kidding) do it how you can, but at least try the mantle for a second time. A neat line.
By slim Administrator Jun 10, 2011 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+E3 5c
Went back and climbed this route again after doing it previously about 17 years ago. The only thing I remembered was the mantle and that I didn't really like the route. The mantle felt pretty easy this time, although I lost points for doing the 'beached whale'. I then put my break dancing skills to work (the worm, anybody remember that one?), and got up onto the ledge. Hopefully I re-earned my lost points with this display of technical proficiency.
The actual climbing on the rest of the route is kind of ok, although greasy. The bolts are old, the hangers look worse, and the runout to the anchors totally sucked. Greasy, awkward, and clipping the anchors off of a hidden portion of a hold. I didn't find the good spot until I had already clipped the anchors. You are a ways above your last bolt with the mantle block below you. Not a big fan of this one, probably won't ever do it again.