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 ADVANCED
Jackrabbit Buttress
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Black Pearl, The T 
Blind Spot T 
Cottontail T 
Crazy Horse T 
Degunker T 
Don't Touch That in Front of Grandma T 
Ernest Stemmingway T 
Geronimo T 
Juggernaut T 
Minerva, The T 
MysterZ T 
Rose Hips T 
Saddle Up T 
Smooth Operator T 
Stuffed Animals on Prozac T 
Swine Tasting T 

Swine Tasting 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FRA DCuster & SRuff, Jan 2014
Page Views: 175
Submitted By: dave custer on Jan 12, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: the line of Swine Tasting

Description 

Follow discontinuous cracks and huecos up to the right end of a black, varnished roof. Traverse left to the arÍte proper and pull through to discontinuous cracks and easier climbing on the arÍte and face above. From the (climber's) right side of the ledge system (where The Black Pearl tops out), climb up and right to the obvious crack. Follow it up and left ~ 60 feet, gaining 3rd/4th class rock. Angle up and left to a short, awkward finger/hand crack that leads to a wider crack and the short hike to the Jackrabbit buttress descent cairns.


Location 

The arÍte between Blind Spot and The Black Pearl. Start 30 feet downhill from the Black Pearl. Descend pitch 1 by rappel from trees at (climber's) left end of ledge system; descend from the top via Jackrabbit Buttress walk off.


Protection 

Nuts, doubles blue camalot jr. to blue camalot useful to gain the buttress top in one pitch. A few long slings may be in order to manage rope drag for the traverse below the varnished roof. A #5 camalot fits nicely in a hueco at the start of this traverse.



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By Susan Ruff
Apr 22, 2014

This climb is 3 pitches of business, with an additional low-angle "pitch" (or move of belay) between pitches 2 and 3. At the top of the second pitch is a lovely huge alcove you could host a party in. This alcove holds the start of The Minerva. There are many possible exits from the alcove. The finger/hand crack mentioned above is one of the left-most possible exits and is the obvious exit if what you're looking for is a crack climb (as opposed to a face, corner, or traverse). I think that The Minerva is a more natural conclusion to this climb because the flavor of climbing (face/arete) is comparable to the first pitch of Swine Tasting Party. But if you're short on time, the crack exit described above has only one short crux, so is faster.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 24, 2014

Red Rock is such an amazing place that routes like this can still be going up. So much fun and unclimbed rock to still be climbed there. Great job on seeing and going for this line. Looks like it was an adventure.