||Trad, Sport, Aid, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0 [details]|
|FA: ||Darryl Cramer, Greg Olsen, Larry Kemp, 91 FFA w/P4 variation: Mikey Schaefer, 2011|
|Season: ||Not summer|
|Page Views: ||892|
|Submitted By: ||Drewsky on Dec 29, 2008|
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P1 (Hard .11+/mid .12): Edge and crank your way past two small roofs into a cruxy corner. Very hard for the grade if the rest of the climb is considered .11 to .11+. Bolted anchors on a ledge. Sometimes treated as a 'separate' climb because of its difficulty. 100'.
P2 (.11+): Fun face climbing through two obvious cruxes leads to another belay stance. This is the 'crux', but only if you don't count P1 (Which can be bypassed by climbing the first pitch of Town Crier/Green Dragon at .9+/.10-). 80'.
P3 (5.9+): Steep crack climbing leads to a large ledge (Smokeout Ledge). Gear to #3 camalot. 45'.
P4 (5.10 A0 or 5.12c): A short bolt ladder leads to very interesting face climbing in a large area of a different rock variety to a hanging belay at a stance. 90'. Alternately, a free variation (.12c) starts to the right of the bolt ladder, crossing it at its 2nd or 3rd bolt. A crux down low leads to flat edges and a poor stance. A friction crux requiring some serious granite sorcery climbs out of a left arching corner and leads to easier climbing on the quartzite rock above, rejoining the main Swim route at the anchor.
P5 (.11): This and the next pitch share the same thin and technical face climbing. They both are solid 5.11.
P6 (.11): See previous pitch. This one may be a touch harder.
P7 (5.9+): Bolted climbing up quartzite leads to the top of the wall. A small amount of natural gear may be required on this pitch.
This starts down and right of the obvious first pitch crack of Town Crier/Green Dragon, which is on a pedestal higher up the trail. Climb past two bolts to a stance at the base of the tough climbing.
A single 70m rope guarantees a no-frills descent. I'm pretty sure a 70m is required to rappel the first pitch with a single rope. A walk-off is also possible, but far less convenient.
All bolts except for P3 and possibly the final pitch. Take 12-14 QD's including a couple of longer slings. Gear to #3 Camalots (maybe #4) is needed for P3. All anchors are fixed and equipped for rappel. As of fall '06, the bolts all looked pretty good.