Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack 
Alligator Wall 
American Beauty Crack 
Baker Street 
Broken Foot 
Chez's Chimney 
Chez's Chimney variation 
Climber's Arrogance 
Curving Crack 
Dancing Madly Backwards 
Deceptive 
Dirty Little Secret 
Everleigh Club Crack 
Freaky Face 
Gargantua 
Girls Named Sue 
Half Crack 
Has Been 
High Life, The 
Mammalary Magic 
One-Upper 
Out There 
Pacific Ocean Wall 
Ptooey 
Sepsen Wall 
Seven Seas 
Sherlocked 
Swillbillies 
Tarantula 
Team Arturo 
Uberschmidt 
Wave Mechanics 
Wobbly Dihedral 

Swillbillies 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 543
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Aug 21, 2011
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Another shot of Doug H. leading Swillbillies OldSS...

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is route #12 in Sven's Book. The route starts behind an oak tree to the right of Freaky Face. Move up the corner and crack onto a decent rest ledge. From there place good gear and then get into the crack to your left using good sidepulls and finger locks. A few tricky balancy moves up the crack lead to a good finger lock and mantle move onto a sloping ledge. Scramble to the top and shake yr ass like a drunken swillbilly.


Location 

10 feet to the right of Freaky Face


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Swillbillies Slideshow Add Photo
Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1.  Great warm up for the start of the day's agenda.
Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1. G...
Comments on Swillbillies Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 26, 2011

Anybody else gonna sack up and tackle this one? Or are ya scaaarrreeeed?

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Sep 27, 2011

I TR'ed this thing when I first started climbing. I call choss pile! :P

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 27, 2011

Nice Paul! Way to get after it!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Sep 27, 2011

Oh I got after it!

On a side note, my non-climbing friend also sent the route. But he used the tree behind the climb to stem LOL. Valid ascent?

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Sep 27, 2011

I think Josh Schmale led this (I followed) a few weeks ago. Not a very impressive climb, but it has a few easy jams for the beginning crack climber.

By Tradoholic
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Very protectable and fun. A excellent first lead at The Lake. More like 5.6.

By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Fantastic route. Love the topout moves, definitely a great lead.

By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Oct 14, 2013

Awesome lead. Its super fun pulling into the crack and cool moves to the top.