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 ADVANCED
Old Sandstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"The Nipple" 
Africa Crack T 
Alligator Wall T,TR 
American Beauty Crack T,TR 
Baker Street TR 
Broken Foot T 
Chez's Chimney T,TR 
Chez's Chimney variation T,TR 
Climber's Arrogance T,TR 
Curving Crack T,TR 
Dancing Madly Backwards T,TR 
Deceptive T,TR 
Dirty Little Secret T,TR 
Everleigh Club Crack T 
Freaky Face T,TR 
Gargantua T,TR 
Girls Named Sue T 
Half Crack T,TR 
Has Been T,TR 
High Life, The TR 
Mammalary Magic T,TR 
One-Upper T,TR 
Out There TR 
Pacific Ocean Wall TR 
Ptooey T 
Sepsen Wall T,TR 
Seven Seas TR 
Sherlocked T,TR 
Swillbillies T 
Tarantula T 
Team Arturo T,TR 
Uberschmidt TR 
Wave Mechanics TR 
Wobbly Dihedral T 

Swillbillies 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 667
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Aug 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Another shot of Doug H. leading Swillbillies OldSS...

Description 

This is route #12 in Sven's Book. The route starts behind an oak tree to the right of Freaky Face. Move up the corner and crack onto a decent rest ledge. From there place good gear and then get into the crack to your left using good sidepulls and finger locks. A few tricky balancy moves up the crack lead to a good finger lock and mantle move onto a sloping ledge. Scramble to the top and shake yr ass like a drunken swillbilly.

Location 

10 feet to the right of Freaky Face

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of Swillbillies Slideshow Add Photo
Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
Doug H. on Swillbillies #2- OldSS DL.
Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1.  Great w...
Doug H. leading Swillbillies at OldSS #1. Great w...

Comments on Swillbillies Add Comment
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 26, 2011

Anybody else gonna sack up and tackle this one? Or are ya scaaarrreeeed?
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 27, 2011

I TR'ed this thing when I first started climbing. I call choss pile! :P
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 27, 2011

Nice Paul! Way to get after it!
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Sep 27, 2011

Oh I got after it!

On a side note, my non-climbing friend also sent the route. But he used the tree behind the climb to stem LOL. Valid ascent?
By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Sep 27, 2011

I think Josh Schmale led this (I followed) a few weeks ago. Not a very impressive climb, but it has a few easy jams for the beginning crack climber.
By Tradoholic
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Very protectable and fun. A excellent first lead at The Lake. More like 5.6.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fantastic route. Love the topout moves, definitely a great lead.
By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Oct 14, 2013

Awesome lead. Its super fun pulling into the crack and cool moves to the top.