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 ADVANCED
Loggerhead Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
?? Simian Sex Junior T 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Swillar Pillar 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tucker Tech (1989)
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 21, 2013

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Description 

From Le Nocturne follow the base around to the right and uphill for a couple hundred feet. Then traverse back left onto a ledge with a big pine tree. Swillar Pillar climbs the right side of the semi-detached pillar of rock that starts off this ledge. It is *not* the more prominent spire which is located much higher up the cliff and directly above this route.

The climb begins several feet to the right of the actual pillar. Climb shelves and flakes leading up and left to a high bolt (5.7 R). Some micro cams and wires provide a glimmer of hope, but don't count on any gear actually holding a fall. From the bolt, climb the right side of the pillar and wander through a couple ledges. At the roof, hand traverse to the right to reach a small pine tree. Scramble up the gully and mantle onto the ledge back left with a bolted anchor.

A 60m rope should get you down. The lead bolt and anchor are newly replaced and bomber.

Protection 

Pro to 2"


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