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Sweetie Don't Bite 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Creighton Chute, Jill Cooper, Erica Bigio, EFR,'07
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 616
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the black streak as seen from about 40 fee...

Description 

This long route has some engaging sections. A 70 meter rope will reach or lower to the anchors you pass as you lead the whole thing as one pitch.

Location 

Black streak right of the big dihedral. Starts below a grassy ledge in the black streak.

Protection 

Bolt, anchors


Photos of Sweetie Don't Bite Slideshow Add Photo
Greg midway up near the crux
Greg midway up near the crux

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By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jan 27, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Its funny that toproping this seemed easier than leading Virgin's Airline, but that was the first route of the day and not my style of stuff. But both are awesome! If you do decide to toprope this be aware that there are some sharp horizontal edges up top and a pendulum might result in some nasty rope wear.
By dcohn
Jan 27, 2008

Despite Joseph's experience, this climb is probably 3 letter grades harder than Virgin's. It is similar climbing but there several very thin cruxes on this climb. One of the cool aspects of the climb is that due to the rock angle, you can basically cling to the rock until you figure out your way through the cruxes.
By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Jan 4, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Maybe I'm completely out of shape but this climb seemed closer to 5.11b than 11a to me. The cruxes are thin and the climbing is continuously hard through the upper section. Still it's a fun route and I'd give it more stars if the first half was better.