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Hypertension
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Hypertension 
Shart Attack 
Sweet Unnamed Crack 

Sweet Unnamed Crack 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b Hueco: V1- Font: 5- [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 971
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Apr 24, 2006
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Beautiful little crack.

Description 

Splitter boulder problem. Starts out as thin fingers and slowly widens to tight hands. Suprisingly, this crack is unpublished, though it is one of Vedauwoos oldest boulder problems. This is a great crack in it's own right, and it serves as an excellent warm up if your headed up to Hypertension. Running laps on this thing is a favorite pastime by many people who know about it. Respect the vegetation about the base. You are right in the middle of the Central Area, so there are some lovely views all around you.


Location 

As you approach for Land of the Rising Moon, while still at ground level, you will walk across a red wooden bridge over the little invariably dry drainage. Right after crossing the bridge, head up to the obvious big boulders about 50 to 100 feet away that are on the right (north) side of the drainage. This crack is facing you, but you can only see the very top of it, as another boulder will be blocking your view of the base.


Protection 

Skill. You probably wouldn't want to fall off the top, but thats not too likely to happen, it just gets easier and easier as you go up.



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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 12, 2009

For those new to the finger jam game, just getting off the ground will be the crux. The jams bite really hard, so there's the double issue of dealing with the pain, and convincing yourself that if your feet blow, the crack won't elect to keep your fingers.