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 ADVANCED
Right of the Roof
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Automatic Static S 
Ground Zero S 
La Bella Donna S 
Natural Selection S 
Salubrious S 
Survival of the Fittest S 
Sweet Surrender S 

Sweet Surrender 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2010
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Steve Shiflett on Sep 18, 2010

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Sweet surrender
Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb 3 bolts of easy (5.10-) terrain before coming to double underclings. A short and powerful crux leads to a good clipping jug. Pull the final bulge and finish on balancy climbing to the anchors


Location 

This route is where "the sweetest thing" used to be before it came down. Immediately left of Ground Zero and right of stranger than friction.


Protection 

8 bolts to rap anchors



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By Steve Shiflett
From: Upland, Ca
Oct 29, 2010

I entered this route per the rating of the first ascentionist, but I think it's more likely 12a. The crux is only a couple moves, and they are not that bad.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 13, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Crux is only a couple moves like what steve said, but I feel like individual crux move is harder then crux on other 12as at the quarry like megalomania/raging raptor