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BETA PHOTO: Heading up Sweet Surprise.
Start at the shared start of The Right Cheek. Once above the lower face traverse right about ten feet and climb up good edges to an open book. The open book has easy and fun moves and the top features great hand and fist jams. After exiting the open book step up to two hand to fist size cracks that are about two and a half to three feet long, being careful not to disturb the loose rock to the left. Finish at the tree and either walk off or rappel.
Gear to #3 Camalot, long slings.
BETA PHOTO: Starts up the blocks to a ledge, then trends right...
By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dana and I climbed this on 1-Oct-2010. A very dirty climb with loose rock. The dirt and loose rock will improve as people climb it. But the traverse detracts from the quality of the climb. Carefully look at the Beta photo for the finish. The top has two parallel short corners cracks, with a minor arête between them. The right hand corner is slightly overhung and appears harder then 5.7. The one on the left is clean and the rock seams solid, however getting into it is an awkward 5.7 move. Straight up the arête appears to be the route, though it looks intimidating then its actual rated 5.7. The loose rock "to the left" appears to be higher up.