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Sweet Surprise 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Kenny Allen and Jim Opdycke 3/11/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 140
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Heading up Sweet Surprise.

Description 

Start at the shared start of The Right Cheek. Once above the lower face traverse right about ten feet and climb up good edges to an open book. The open book has easy and fun moves and the top features great hand and fist jams. After exiting the open book step up to two hand to fist size cracks that are about two and a half to three feet long, being careful not to disturb the loose rock to the left. Finish at the tree and either walk off or rappel.

Protection 

Gear to #3 Camalot, long slings.


Photos of Sweet Surprise Slideshow Add Photo
Starts up the blocks to a ledge, then trends right and up into a dihedral with surprisingly nice moves.
BETA PHOTO: Starts up the blocks to a ledge, then trends right...

Comments on Sweet Surprise Add Comment
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By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Dana and I climbed this on 1-Oct-2010. A very dirty climb with loose rock. The dirt and loose rock will improve as people climb it. But the traverse detracts from the quality of the climb. Carefully look at the Beta photo for the finish. The top has two parallel short corners cracks, with a minor arÍte between them. The right hand corner is slightly overhung and appears harder then 5.7. The one on the left is clean and the rock seams solid, however getting into it is an awkward 5.7 move. Straight up the arÍte appears to be the route, though it looks intimidating then its actual rated 5.7. The loose rock "to the left" appears to be higher up.