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Wave, The T,S 

Sweet Sunday Serenade 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Andy Petefish
Page Views: 10,707
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jan 10, 2002

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Having fun on Sweet Sunday Serenade.


Sweet Sunday Serenade is a Unaweep classic. It consists of three good pitches on excellent rock. The climbing is not very difficult but highly enjoyable. The climb is located on the right hand side of Sunday Wall and starts in a left-facing dihedral with a right-leaning hand crack. Just to the climbers right of the route is Catch a Wave, a bolted 5.11 face climb that shares the same anchor as the first pitch on S.S.S.

Pitch 1: Follow the crack up and right with a 5.8 move just off the ground. 135 feet to a bolted rappel anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb obvious corner up and left from the anchor with fingers and face moves 5.9 for 75 feet to a good ledge with bolted rappel anchor.

Pitch 3: Several options, The original line leaves from the West end of the large ledge above the belay and climbs a right angling crack for 25 feet to a ledge below a large flake. Pass the flake and climb a nice finger crack 5.9-. Near the top traverse slightly right and look for another bolted rappel anchor. 155 feet.

Descent: Rappel with two ropes to the ground.


Standard rack to a #3 Camalot and two ropes.

Photos of Sweet Sunday Serenade Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweet Sunday Serenade, showing the Satisfaction Gu...
BETA PHOTO: Sweet Sunday Serenade, showing the Satisfaction Gu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kenny above the short but difficult P2 crux.
Kenny above the short but difficult P2 crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the second pitch of SSS.
Climbers on the second pitch of SSS.
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 of Sweet Sunday Serenade at the "Satisfact...
P2 of Sweet Sunday Serenade at the "Satisfact...
Rock Climbing Photo: John Sasso leading third pitch.
John Sasso leading third pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of the perplexing P3. We knew we were...
Near the top of the perplexing P3. We knew we were...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck on the easy ground on P1. The P1 crux is rig...
Chuck on the easy ground on P1. The P1 crux is rig...
Rock Climbing Photo: John enjoying the last pitch of Sweet Sunday Seren...
John enjoying the last pitch of Sweet Sunday Seren...

Comments on Sweet Sunday Serenade Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Feb 18, 2002

FYI: The second pitch that I describe here is actually a variation and is considered a different route called "Satisfaction Guaranteed" in KC Baum's book. I do guarantee satisfaction and highly recommend this variation.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 15, 2002

The "variation" is the only apparent climbable line that we could see off this ledge atop P1. It is superb steep climbing, and quite solid 5.9. We finished with the large excellent dihedral for P3 (Sun Dancer), for a combination worthy of three stars.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Jun 28, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

THE multi-pitch route in the canyon at the 5.9 level. I second what Charles said about the "variation" on the P2 being the only apparent line. After climbing the initial ~50 feet of 5.9, the line moves slightly right and continues at the same level until reaching a pedestal below the rap bolts. I found P3 to be pretty sustained after the large flake. Lots of fingery steep climbing that eases off in the last 20 feet. I was gassed at the end of the pitch for sure.

Not really sure why Baum and Green call this a [grade] III in their books, it certainly wasn't because of the approach (which took 15 minutes). Also, two raps (one from the top and the second from atop P2) with 60m doubles will get you to the ramp just right of the start of P1 with a little downclimbing. Dunno.
By Chris Perkins
From: Avon, Colorado
May 10, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Is there a bolt on this route besides the anchors? I see it in the picture that describes the 2nd pitch var., but I never saw it. Route finding is tricky here. The way I read the book was the 3rd pitch took the left angling crack/flake with all the vegetation, but here it is described as the twin finger/hand cracks straight up. We took this cause it looked better. I thought this was Sun Dancer. Another party that was coming down thought the same thing and did the veggie var.
By Martin Harris
Dec 14, 2010

Kind of off topic, but after climbing, we went to go pump out on some boulders and ended up face to face with a black bear. So, be careful. They are not hibernating just yet.
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 19, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very nice, moderate, granite multi-pitch climb... a rare bird! Worth it for the second pitch alone, which would be a standout even in Yosemite. The route-finding on the third pitch is weird: I had trouble finding a direct line from the Sundeck to the "correct" 5.9 crack left of the main Sun Dancer dihedral, and wandered back and forth a lot. Also, there's an optional short thin finger crack at the top of the 3rd pitch, just right of the main crack, that offers the best 10 feet of climbing on the whole route, at maybe 10a?
By Matt Borg
Sep 28, 2015

Climbed this Saturday with the Sun Dancer finish. Great full value 5.9 climbing on the second pitch! We found a green C4 stuck right at the crux that looks like it will be there for a while and is potentially damaged. For those with the time and gumption, it would be nice to see that removed at some point as we couldn't get it with what we had. The Sun Dancer finish proved adventurous and made for an even more memorable day. 3+ stars, one of the best for the grade anywhere.

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