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1. A bolt protects the first move which leads up to the crack that runs out the right side of the overhang above. The OW awaits at the lip of the roof. Belay at the horizontal below a short bulge with another OW. (5.10 110')
2. Head up and right into main chimney. Shortly after you get wedged, traverse to the outside and clip a bolt that protects the rest of the chimney that gradually eases. The final rampy corner is a little trickier than it looks. Belay from 2 bolts at the end of the corner. (5.8+ 110')
DESCENT: Rap 200' to the ground from the 2 bolts with double 60M ropes. If you only take a single rope you can downclimb the 4th class gully mentioned below.
Near the right end of the South Face of Stonewall (See approach picture). Several hundred feet left of a 3rd/4th class gully that leads to the top.
Stoppers, doubles to #2, #3 thru #6 (We didn't have one but a #7 or equivalent Big Bro would be even better than the #6!)
Double 60M ropes (if you rap.)
BETA PHOTO: The route from the approach slope.
Jul 9, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Real good route. a little over bolted. But still a good, trad, offwidthy, exposedy, kind of back country adventurous route