Sweet Sabrina  5.9+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Ed Webster, Robert Anderson 1990 Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Sep 20, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Luke on the easy slabs. Root of All Evil goes over...

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This route lies midway between Root of All Evil and Good Timing. Start from the top of the blocks at the base of the slab. Angle right on moderate, 5.7 or so, climbing past two bolts to a small ceiling. You can get some small gear here, but the ceiling is easy, and there is a good pin just above. The Rossiter top shows it going right from here then back left, but I went left and then up and slightly right. This is way runout, but also very easy at maybe 5.5. Possible ground fall potential.

Aim for the short, right-facing corner through the roofs, down and just left of a small tree above the roofs. The corner is a bit dirty, but solid. At first I had a nut in the obvious finger jam/slot in the corner, but it was in the way, so I took it out. I relied on a less than bomber micro cam (#00 Metolius??). There is a small bush whose root makes a smooth but small handhold.

Pulling the first roof felt quite hard. Much harder than Root of All Evil, but my partners felt the two routes are comparable. Once in the corner you can clip the pin out left. Back up the pin with a cam to the right (strenuous). Mantle left around the corner and stand up. Step right and up to the tree. The Rossiter topo shows a bolt by the pin, but there is no such bolt, nor is it needed.

I give this route one star due to the moderate grunge at the crux and the unsustained nature of the climbing. It's not up to the quality of the neighboring routes.

Protection 

2 bolts near the bottom, fixed pin above small ceiling on slab, runout but easy to the roof, #2, #3 offset Friend (or regular Friends) below the roof, micro cam in corner above (don't fill in finger hold in crack with a nut!), fixed pin above final roof that can be backed up with a mid sized cam. Slings and single ring on tree.

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After the first hard move. The pin (not visible fr...