Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Pear
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil's Lake Revisited T 
Dextrous Digits T,TR 
Fat-Bottomed Groove T 
Finger Tripping T 
Gina's Surprise T 
Good Timing T,S 
Heavenly Journey T 
Jam on It T,TR 
La Chaim T 
Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 
Neko's Route T,S 
Northern Lights T 
Pit of the Pear, The T 
Platinum Stethoscope T 
Right Dihedral T 
Root of All Evil T 
Salud T 
Sibling Rivalry T,S 
Slippage T 
Sloper Ramp 
Sweet Sabrina T 
Thorazine T 
Whole Thing T 
Unsorted Routes:

Sweet Sabrina 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Webster, Robert Anderson 1990
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Sep 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Luke on the easy slabs. Root of All Evil goes over...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route lies midway between Root of All Evil and Good Timing. Start from the top of the blocks at the base of the slab. Angle right on moderate, 5.7 or so, climbing past two bolts to a small ceiling. You can get some small gear here, but the ceiling is easy, and there is a good pin just above. The Rossiter top shows it going right from here then back left, but I went left and then up and slightly right. This is way runout, but also very easy at maybe 5.5. Possible ground fall potential.

Aim for the short, right-facing corner through the roofs, down and just left of a small tree above the roofs. The corner is a bit dirty, but solid. At first I had a nut in the obvious finger jam/slot in the corner, but it was in the way, so I took it out. I relied on a less than bomber micro cam (#00 Metolius??). There is a small bush whose root makes a smooth but small handhold.

Pulling the first roof felt quite hard. Much harder than Root of All Evil, but my partners felt the two routes are comparable. Once in the corner you can clip the pin out left. Back up the pin with a cam to the right (strenuous). Mantle left around the corner and stand up. Step right and up to the tree. The Rossiter topo shows a bolt by the pin, but there is no such bolt, nor is it needed.

I give this route one star due to the moderate grunge at the crux and the unsustained nature of the climbing. It's not up to the quality of the neighboring routes.

Protection 

2 bolts near the bottom, fixed pin above small ceiling on slab, runout but easy to the roof, #2, #3 offset Friend (or regular Friends) below the roof, micro cam in corner above (don't fill in finger hold in crack with a nut!), fixed pin above final roof that can be backed up with a mid sized cam. Slings and single ring on tree.


Photos of Sweet Sabrina Slideshow Add Photo
After the first hard move. The pin (not visible fr...
After the first hard move. The pin (not visible fr...

Comments on Sweet Sabrina Add Comment
Show which comments
By S. Kimball
Sep 21, 2003

Ivan is being generous with this routes quality (can we say crap?) I've always had a problem trusting the single piece of protection at the crux roof.