Sweet Rock, Cochise Stronghold. Good and Plenty, ...
Description
Mostly Sport climbing just before Isle of You Wall. This area is being developed by Mike and Amy Diesen, Daryl Allen and Angel Mangual-Guadalupe. Great routes and well bolted. A 60 meter rope is required for most routes.
Here is a list of the routes so far from left to right: Good and Plenty 5.7 Peanut Brittle 5.9+ Rick Krispie Treat 5.12 Cracker Jack 5.10c/d Everlasting Gobstopper 5.10c/d Mounds 5.10- Hot Tamale 5.10b/c Jawbreaker 5.10a/b Pop Rocks 5.10a Thingamajig 5.9+ Watchamacallit 5.8 Kit Kat 5.7+ Atomic Fireball 5.10a Now and Later 5.10b Pay Day 5.9+ Unknown Left of Zagnut 5.11+ R Zagnut 5.11b Lemmonhead 5.11a Taste the Rainbow 5.8 (around back side)
The rock quality is pretty good and the loose stuff is getting cleaned up but this is a new area and there is still some loose stuff. MAKE SURE YOUR BELAYER WEARS A HELMET.
Getting There
After turning on the spur road to Isle of You it is the obvious 140 foot rock on the right.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sweet Rock:
straightforward climb up through the v slot. Crux would be the small roof half way up and a couple tricky moves climbing to the second and third bolts on the second pitch...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Jan 15, 2009
Would like to 2nd Mike's comment about the helmet. Everyone standing around at the base of a route where someone is climbing should have a helmet on. This is good form anywhere but should practiced here in particular. The area is very new so expect some debris. We've worked hard to pull off the obvious (and some not so obvious) meteors but more are sure to come; particularly as you move to the routes to the middle and to the right.
Sweet Rock, indeed. Great job Mike and company! The new routes are fun, fun, fun. Good range of climbs, with something for everyone.
Daryl - Taking your advice on the helmet, but I've just got to point out the photo above of you and Angel standing under a climber *bareheaded*. :) Do as I say, not as I do?
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Jan 26, 2009
Exactly! Ya gotta be tough when you're dumb! :) You're right though.. I should have had the bucket on.
What sup guys!! Men I am stuck in Kuwait waiting to go to Afghanistan. I met this dude from SF but civilian and he is a climber and had climb in Afghanistan. He said the climbing was great and of course no body has really climb it. Men, If I can I will do it. Men do I miss it. Oh by the way they sell Rock Ice magazine over here awesome!
That's right! Gadgets were installed instead of bolts/hangers out at sweet rock. The term 'hangers' is to be ritually replaced with 'gadgets' while climbing here. =)
Lots of stuff still coming off here - highly recommend helmet wear, especially for the belayer. Fun routes that will clean up nicely as people get on them more. Some holds will still come off in your hand (or under your feet), so be wary of that as you head up!! Regardless, go climb them - the 5 second approach is worth it! :) Mostly shady until about 2 pm as of now, which makes for pleasant temperatures.
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Sep 17, 2009
Hey Primo. I heard through a friend that someone in your group got tagged pretty bad deflecting a rock while belaying on Mounds. Very sorry to hear about the accident. I hope it wasn't too serious and that she's able to heal and climb very soon. d
HEY Guy!!!! Finally I will be back on February for a couple of weeks. I am looking forward to go climbing as a group again like old times YEAH!!! Miss you ALL!!!
James H.tasting the rainbow on the sunny side, belay thankfully had a hard hat on to deflect the fallout of fruit flavours! Submitted By: dunc shep on Dec 14, 2009
Nice Job Mike, Amy, Daryl and Angel! I finally got out here to climb. Had a lot of fun. Good routes, bolts in good spots, not any kitty litter to speak of. Had a fun day with a friend who needed some easy ten or less climbing and we had fun. Thanks for the hard work. Also did a thing called Milk Duds. Not sure if it has been done as I don't see it posted up. Probably 12b or so but a bit wandery. I would move some bolts around and force it farther right as it keeps you off the 9 and ten longer. Worth doing. Thanks again. Eric
I think this is Milk Duds. Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Oct 18, 2010
By Daryl Allan From: Sierra Vista, AZ Mar 17, 2011
Thanks for the kind words Eric and nice send on the 12 alt start. Sweet Rock was absolutely packed this past weekend. I've never seen that many people there before. We stopped in for a bit on Saturday and met some really nice out of towners and lots of folks from Tucson as well. Those routes are cleaning up nice and with another season or two will be even better. Thanks again for the feedback! d
By Matt Riddle From: Sierra Vista, AZ Aug 30, 2012
We encountered this critter at the bottom of Good n' Plenty on 8/25/12. My non-climbing friend then scooped it up to move it away from the crag, but he dropped it off in the neighborhood of Payday. I turned around just in time to realize he didn't drop it off far enough. Oh, well, there's your PSA. I'm sure he's still around. Submitted By: Matt Riddle on Aug 30, 2012