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Sweet Pain Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A-Cute Pain T 
Gambler, The S 
Glitter Gulch S 
Lee Press On S 
Pain in the Neck S 
Sister of Pain S 
Slave to the Grind S 
Sour Pain S 
Sweet Pain S 

Sweet Pain 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Leo Henson & Randy Faulk - 1991
Page Views: 7,987
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (133)
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Climber nearing crux

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The namesake climb is pretty good (and soft for the grade?)... climb up very steep rock past some sharp incuts. Fun moves.

Protection 

A few bolts to a lower-off.


Photos of Sweet Pain Slideshow Add Photo
Margaret sending Sweet Pain.
Margaret sending Sweet Pain.
On Sweet Pain
On Sweet Pain
T. Melin floats up Sweet Pain
T. Melin floats up Sweet Pain
Off Sweet Pain
Off Sweet Pain
me leading Sweet Pain in Red Rocks
me leading Sweet Pain in Red Rocks
Steve Dew crushing Sweet Pain
Steve Dew crushing Sweet Pain
The route. No harder than 11d
The route. No harder than 11d
Cool climb
BETA PHOTO: Cool climb

Comments on Sweet Pain Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 27, 2015
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 21, 2004

Chad -- check out the description of the crag one level up at climbingredrocks.com/rock/db/s.... Hope this helps.
By Gary Savage
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 10, 2007

Sweet Pain is one of those soft Red Rocks routes. The grade is closer to 11c. It's still a great route just heavily grade inflated.
By John Soares
From: Corvallis, Or.
Feb 3, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

very soft for the grade. 11c maybe... still fun!
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 29, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Keep an eye out for the huge sucker hold out left at the crux. :)
By Marc Wolak
Jan 20, 2009

Yeah ... I climbed Sweet Pain too. It was absolutely no problem.
As a matter of fact, unlike Chad Wolak, I did it with one hand tied behind my back. Yeah ... easy stuff. Give me somethin' harder to
climb; will ya?
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

11D in Handen, like glitter, its probably soft for that.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Definitely not a 5.12, but fun all the same.
By BrianWS
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Excellent climb! Sustained overhanging climbing with no really hard moves. Very soft for 5.12.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 25, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

On Jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks and links to this anchor to reduce wear on the anchor and facilitate cleaning of the route.
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 26, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Before this the hardest I led outside was a 5.11B at the Dog Wall. I looked at Sweet Pain and wanted to do it because it looked doable and fun, not because it said 5.11D in the guidebook which for me was way harder than anything I've tried leading outside.

But I did try it and it was hard for me but tons of fun... but definitely not 5.11D. So it's funny that this website says the grade is 5.12A.

Regardless, the clips are super easy, and the sequences between clips are thoughtful and fun. One of the best climbs I've done outside!
By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 11, 2015

Great route! Pretty soft for .12a though.
By ChrisBrandenburg
From: Park City, UT
Apr 2, 2015

If you go left to the horn its more like 11b/c. Straight up through the crimp ladder might be 11d.
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
May 15, 2015

Definitely felt like solid 11+ or 12- to me, or maybe I was just tired. Either way, not the most aesthetically pleasing climb to look at but definitely has some fun moves.
By drewhouser
May 27, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I went straight up through the "crux" and it felt 11d, no harder. Maybe had I gone out left like in the pictures it would have been easier...or harder...regardless a solid 11 leader could get this after a few goes.
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