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Jazz Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10 Head S 
Ashbug TR 
D&D S 
Dad Loves Jazz S 
Dedicated to Blitzo 2 S 
Easy Listening TR 
Ladder 1 
Ladder 2 
Lynn's Route S,TR 
Moonlight Cocktail S 
Pissappointment S,TR 
Remind Me To Murder You Later (mistakenly called James' Route) T,TR 
Straight - No Chaser S 
Strat, The S 
Sweet Little Hollywood Flake T 
Unknown S 

Sweet Little Hollywood Flake 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Matt Clark into easier terrain on SLHF, Jazz Dome.

Be considerate MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Begin near a bushy evergreen below a ledge/bowl about 40' off the ground. Climb past two bolts to the ledge, exit the bowl past a third bolt and continue on easier (but totally runout) ground to the top.

The rock quality is less than desirable on this one, but the hardest climbing is in the best rock.

Location 

This is the leftmost reported route on the wall. It is just right of the fence line and starts near a bushy evergreen about five feet off the ground.

Protection 

Three buttonhead bolts and bolt anchors. The anchor is three buttonheads (which look good for what they are) and one newer beefier bolt). Leave the trad gear in your pack. The only place to put in any gear is under the hollow and crumbly flake below the third bolt.


Photos of Sweet Little Hollywood Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Locker on "Little Hollywood Flake". Phot...
Locker on "Little Hollywood Flake". Phot...
Matt at the flake. Photo by Blitzo.
Matt at the flake. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Sweet Little Hollywood Flake Add Comment
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By James
From: Lakewood, CO
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

There is a decent runout between the second and third bolts (perhaps 25 feet). I was able to place a #1 Camalot in a crack on a ledge approximately halfway between the bolts. I used a stone to clean out the dirt. Felt much better knowing I would not ground if I fell off the loose rock in the dished out area going to the third bolt. You can also get a #3 Camalot in a flake to the right about 10 feet below the third bolt, but the #1 is better.
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 23, 2015

Definite groundfall between the 2nd and 3rd bolt if you blow, but it is over easier ground. The flakes that would take gear likely will not hold a fall anyhow so as the description says, leave the gear behind unless it makes you feel a little better knowing there is a useless piece of metal under you. The rock around the flakes is a bit friable, so be careful what you step and pull on. If you're head is in it, this is not a bad route, and getting to the 3rd bolt is some of the easier ground on this route. Also, head to the anchors to the left instead of the 3 bolt anchor waaaay over to the right (about 50-60 foot runout getting to that anchor) as a 70 meter rope will get you the ledge with the small tree, just barely. Heading to the right anchor you will not be able to reach the ground with a single 70 meter rope.
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