Sweet Jane 5.8-
| 919 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | J. J., Jane Maurer - 2004 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Oct 25, 2008 |
| |
Sweet Jane
Add Photo Printer View
Description Formerly one of the few interesting trad lines at Bruise Brothers, Sweet Jane has now been retrobolted as a somewhat less remarkable sport route. Follow a somewhat broken and nicely-featured dihedral up to a short left-leaning hand crack toward the top. Pull the crack and finish at the anchors under the big roof.
Location Starts just left of Hey There Fancy Pants. Rap from the anchors.
Protection Bolts, bolted anchors.
Chris on lead at Bruise Brothers.. Red River Gorge...
| | |
By Adam Beck From: Nashville, TN Jan 21, 2010 rating: 5.6
| Put a half-inch to inch-sized piece in low, clip the bolt, then put a two-inch piece in the crack.
|
By Mark Kauz From: Madison, WI Apr 3, 2010 rating: 5.8-
| Misread the guidebook, and thought I just couldn't see the upper bolts. Makes it PG13 at least if you are like me and run this out. But that was all on me. Nice little climb though to warm up. |
By Jon Marek May 24, 2010
| Did this climb 5/17/10. Looks like it has been bolted. Also there is a new line of glue-in bolts to the left which is the same grade. |
By Jody Koplo From: Chicago, IL Aug 2, 2010
| Talked to Rick. Apparently people kept mistaking this for a sport climb because of the single bolt. Someone got hurt, so the whole route got bolted. |
By Jeff Christbaum From: Muskego, WI Apr 30, 2012 rating: 5.8-
| In 2011 this was my first sport lead climb, and I really enjoyed it. The bolts where placed perfectly, in my opinion. Great holds at each spot, perfect for a new leader. I did the route a few more times early this year and it was still just as fun. |
By Mike Gehle May 7, 2012 rating: 5.8-
| This was my first ever sport lead outdoors. I loved it! With my limited skills, it was challenging enough to keep me very focused, but didn't cause me to cry & soil myself (which is always a possibility). Great route!! |
|