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Sweet Fucker 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Coe, Kenny Allen, Jim Opdycke
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 625
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Sweet Fucker

Description 

Located to the right of Hummingbird Wall and 8 feet to the west of The Head Wall route, if walking the base, before the start of the cliff starts to get shorter, steep and overhanging in spots by the base is a face with some pods and small intermittent cracks for small TCU's and Nuts for pro along with a single #3 Lowe Ball or equivalent TCU/small cam for the crux. Start up the face and clip the pins with a couple of small TCU placements between them (the first pin was put in on lead, the second was added later for everyone else who wanted to follow and not shit their pants). Take a moment and back the pins up, these things are only pitons after all and by the time you get here they may be ready to fall out. Climb to the base of a beautiful headwall crack and go straight up that obvious crack to the out of sight and on the top belay anchor. Don't make your Mamma cry and shame your ancestors by wussing out and traversing right 10' to the anchors visible on The Head Wall. Walk to your car or rap off the stainless Fixe anchors.

Protection 

Standard rack, including small nuts and cams and a #3 Lowe Ball or equivalent.


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By Billcoe
Apr 7, 2012

If climbed to the ledge and the leader traverses right to the headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up SF, it's @ 5.8. Last week Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. It was originally done with gear and a single fixed pin, placed on lead, left behind. Due to the runnout nature of the climb, another pin was later fixed to keep a falling leader from auguring into the dirt.

So hearing that the pins were gone, yesterday I cleaned and re or retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fucker although there are bolts now and not pitons. Tossed a couple extra in for good measure too after discussions with the generally anti-bolt Woo Li Master.

It takes tiny to med cams, couple of @ 3/8" nuts, 4 draws and you're good. The tiny cams for the top crack would be real helpful, but if you don't have them, what I've seen people do is walk across on the ledge towards the East The Headwall anchors which are visible, whereas Sweet Fuckers are on top and out of sight from the ground. The anchor was placed there as the Woo Li Master thought that it would be a great top out route and it would milk a few extra moves from the otherwise short route, however, the trails have improved since then. Thinking that moving the top anchors down over the edge might not be a bad thing if anyone supports that thought: have at it.
By Chris-Bailey
From: Olympia, WA
Sep 9, 2014

Great climb. The bolts were nice, maybe excessive to have so many, but I clipped them all just the same :). You can protect the top crack with a couple of small nuts and a .3 C4 if that's all you've brought with you.
By Topher Dabrowski
Mar 19, 2015

We climbed this and the bolts are a great addition to bring more climbers to what is now a sweet mixed line. If you bring a 0.2 BD X4, a small nut and a 0.5 BD X4/Camalot for the exit you'll only need draws otherwise.

A bit dirty but a very fun route. Thx Bill!
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