|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Bill Coe, Kenny Allen, Jim Opdycke|
|Submitted By:||adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010|
|Comments on Sweet Fucker||Add Comment|
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Apr 7, 2012
If climbed to the ledge and the leader traverses right to the headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up SF, it's @ 5.8. Last week Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. It was originally done with gear and a single fixed pin, placed on lead, left behind. Due to the runnout nature of the climb, another pin was later fixed to keep a falling leader from auguring into the dirt.
So hearing that the pins were gone, yesterday I cleaned and re or retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fucker although there are bolts now and not pitons. Tossed a couple extra in for good measure too after discussions with the generally anti-bolt Woo Li Master.
It takes tiny to med cams, couple of @ 3/8" nuts, 4 draws and you're good. The tiny cams for the top crack would be real helpful, but if you don't have them, what I've seen people do is walk across on the ledge towards the East The Headwall anchors which are visible, whereas Sweet Fuckers are on top and out of sight from the ground. The anchor was placed there as the Woo Li Master thought that it would be a great top out route and it would milk a few extra moves from the otherwise short route, however, the trails have improved since then. Thinking that moving the top anchors down over the edge might not be a bad thing if anyone supports that thought: have at it.
From: Olympia, WA
Sep 9, 2014
|Great climb. The bolts were nice, maybe excessive to have so many, but I clipped them all just the same :). You can protect the top crack with a couple of small nuts and a .3 C4 if that's all you've brought with you.|