|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 850', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||sigmund on Jun 3, 2009|
|Comments on Sweet Dreams||Add Comment|
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By Ian Getzler
Jun 11, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Great climb even in the wet cold! The approach is amazing and the exposure on the wall is even better. Pitch 2 you definitely need to bring gear because the 2 carrots aren't enough to protect the pitch. The traverse is amazing especially when you take a second to look down and get a bit scared. We linked pitch 4 and 5 which was well protected and an easy link. Pitch 6 has a few variants, the "easy" 5.6 face is super run out so I recommend the original finish (corner with big cams) or the harder finish on the left (more bolts).
Great feet the whole climb and a definite classic in the Blue Mountains.