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Killer Cave
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Killer 
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Ring of Fire 
Sam I Am 
Samsara 
Second Hand Nova 
Sign of the Times (First Pitch) 
Sign of the Times (pitch 2) 
Sister Ray 
Spook Eyes 
Successor, The 
Sun Spot 
Sweet Bro 
Throne, The 
To the Moon, Alice 
Urchin, The 
Virga 

Sweet Bro 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Steve Babits, 2003
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 1, 2010
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Sweet Bro in Red. Killer in Purple.

Description 

Sweet Bro is a variation to the legendary "Killer" that ups the grade a couple notches by adding a pumpy headwall that terminates in a sequential boulder problem. Though perhaps justifiably neglected by the enviably spoiled locals, this is a thoroughly excellent route that would be considered highly classic if it weren't surrounded by so many astounding climbs.

Begin up Killer, using the fixed aid ladder or tram start. Lieback up & left for five bolts, then head straight up the amazing panel of pockets. Charge over the roof as for Killer, clip the first bolt over the lip, then immediately head right, following a lightly chalked line of pockets left of Mr. Majestyk. Long, powerful reaches between sometimes crumbly and dirty pockets lead to a pumpy shake below the final bulge. Work up the left-facing flake, then make big moves back right to reach the Majestyk anchor.


Location 

On the left side of the main cave, starting from a fixed rope ladder.


Protection 

~15 bolts to 2 BA. Usually all the draws are fixed, or at least all the draws on Killer are fixed.



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By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 7, 2012

SPOILER ALERT: Holds vanish as you pull the final roof, so be ready to improvise. I had to make a few desperate lunges to the right after clearing the lip.