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Sweet Bro is a variation to the legendary "Killer" that ups the grade a couple notches by adding a pumpy headwall that terminates in a sequential boulder problem. Though perhaps justifiably neglected by the enviably spoiled locals, this is a thoroughly excellent route that would be considered highly classic if it weren't surrounded by so many astounding climbs.
Begin up Killer, using the fixed aid ladder or tram start. Lieback up & left for five bolts, then head straight up the amazing panel of pockets. Charge over the roof as for Killer, clip the first bolt over the lip, then immediately head right, following a lightly chalked line of pockets left of Mr. Majestyk. Long, powerful reaches between sometimes crumbly and dirty pockets lead to a pumpy shake below the final bulge. Work up the left-facing flake, then make big moves back right to reach the Majestyk anchor.
On the left side of the main cave, starting from a fixed rope ladder.
~15 bolts to 2 BA. Usually all the draws are fixed, or at least all the draws on Killer are fixed.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 7, 2012
SPOILER ALERT: Holds vanish as you pull the final roof, so be ready to improvise. I had to make a few desperate lunges to the right after clearing the lip.