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Sweet Back 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,462
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012
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Dean Hoffman sorting out the sweetness.

Photo Chr...


A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples hobo living...

Begin as for Tin Roof Sunday up the right facing dihedral passing one bolt, then continue up and left to a plank rest. A long draw on either the first bolt off the ledge or the next bolt inside the small dihedral will help. When ready, punch through 25' feet of semi technical bouldering to a good rest below the obvious bulge. Move up and right at the bulge to get the huge sidepull jug, and then back left to the arete and turn it on! Excellent movement, and it's a great sports action route.


Towards the middle of the wall. Right of Hungry, Hungry Hobos, and to the left of Tin Roof Sunday.


9 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.

Photos of Sweet Back Slideshow Add Photo
Dean Hoffman on Sweet Back, and Ellie cleaning up Never Ending Night Train, on her way towards a slice of pie. <br /> <br />Photo Chris Novellino
Dean Hoffman on Sweet Back, and Ellie cleaning up ...
Sweet Back tackles the arete.
BETA PHOTO: Sweet Back tackles the arete.
Comments on Sweet Back Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 9, 2012

I would have fallen off this thing if JJ hadn't given me some clues. It is a fun climb. Thanks for a fun day JJ.

By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 9, 2012

Yes, dacite can be a tricky stone, and you tend to miss a lot first go. But hats off to a sports action filled ascent! Now I might have to do that middle line...

By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 4, 2012

I added a couple bolts to this line today. Should make it a bit more user friendly.