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Sweet Back 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,775
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Dean Hoffman sorting out the sweetness.

Photo Chr...

Description 

A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples hobo living... This route features excellent, BOULDERY movement on good holds, and it's a great sports action route.

Begin as for Tin Roof Sunday up the dihedral passing one bolt on the left, then continue up and left to a plank rest. Long draws on the first two bolts off the ledge will help your rope flow. When ready, punch through 25' feet of semi technical bouldering to a decent rest below the obvious bulge.

At the bulge, move up and left to some square cut jugs, then hard right to get the huge sidepull pinch, and then back left to the arÍte to gain the necessary compression. A few slaps up the arÍte should allow you to get your feet over the bulge. The next set of jugs and moves are priceless.... And it's wide open air at that point.

Location 

Towards the middle of the wall. Right of Hungry, Hungry Hobos, and to the left of Tin Roof Sunday.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.


Photos of Sweet Back Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet Back tackles the arete.
BETA PHOTO: Sweet Back tackles the arete.

Comments on Sweet Back Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 9, 2012

I would have fallen off this thing if JJ hadn't given me some clues. It is a fun climb. Thanks for a fun day JJ.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 9, 2012

Yes, dacite can be a tricky stone, and you tend to miss a lot first go. But hats off to a sports action filled ascent! Now I might have to do that middle line...
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2014

I moved bolt #5 today while equipping the Direct line. It makes for a nicer sequence, and the new bolt is right in your face. A big improvement overall.