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Sweet Back 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,985
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Dean Hoffman sorting out the sweetness. Photo Chr...

Description 

A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples hobo living... This route features excellent, BOULDERY movement on good holds, and it's a great sports action route. For the grade it's some of the better dacite climbing around, and the rock quality is excellent.

Begin as for Tin Roof Sunday up the dihedral passing one bolt on the left, then continue up and left to a plank rest. Long draws on the first two bolts off the ledge will help your rope flow. When ready, punch through 25' feet of semi technical bouldering to a decent rest below the obvious bulge.

At the bulge, move up and left to some square cut jugs, then hard right to get the huge sidepull pinch, and then back left to the arÍte to gain the necessary compression. A few slaps up the arÍte should allow you to get your feet over the bulge. The next set of jugs and moves are priceless.... And it's wide open air at that point.

Location 

Towards the middle of the wall. Right of Hungry, Hungry Hobos, and to the left of Tin Roof Sunday.

Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.


Photos of Sweet Back Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet Back tackles the arete.
BETA PHOTO: Sweet Back tackles the arete.

Comments on Sweet Back Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 9, 2012

I would have fallen off this thing if JJ hadn't given me some clues. It is a fun climb. Thanks for a fun day JJ.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 9, 2012

Yes, dacite can be a tricky stone, and you tend to miss a lot first go. But hats off to a sports action filled ascent! Now I might have to do that middle line...
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2014

I moved bolt #5 today while equipping the Direct line. It makes for a nicer sequence, and the new bolt is right in your face. A big improvement overall.
By Aaron Townsley
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Mar 30, 2015

I've climbed the direct line a few times now, I hopped on Sweet Back just recently and it appears some holds broke off at the upper arete. There is a very obvious broken section. Unless I missed something (even after puzzled trouble shooting for 15 minutes) I think this route just jumped up a good leap in difficulty, I was unable to figure out a way to pull through this upper roof area to get up onto the slab. Darren, JJ, or anybody who climbs here often please let me know what your thoughts are when you get out there next?
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 30, 2015

Can't imagine what holds might have gave at the bulgy crux. I'll definitely take a look next time I'm out there.
By Aaron Townsley
From: Scottsdale, Arizona
Apr 10, 2015

After talking with someone who has climbed it, I may have just been a bit confused as to how that section is done. Although there definitely seems like a section of rock on the bulgy arete gave out. either way i'd love to hear what you guys think next time you get out there.
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