Sweet Back 5.12-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | JJ Schlick |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring, Summer, Fall |
| Submitted By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 11, 2012 |
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Dean Hoffman sorting out the sweetness.
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Description A sweet back is a hobo "sheik", and one who merely samples hobo living...
Sweet Back is a stunning, gently overhanging arete which stands perched part way up the wall. The arete feature eventually bends back and slabs out before terminating into the upper portion of the wall creating quite a unique looking line.
Begin as for Tin Roof Sunday up the right facing dihedral passing one bolt, then continue up and left to a plank rest. A long draw on either the first bolt off the ledge or the next bolt inside the small dihedral will help. When ready, punch through 25' feet of semi technical bouldering to a good rest below the obvious bulge. Move up and right at the bulge to get the huge sidepull jug, and then back left to the arete and turn it on! Excellent movement, and it's a great sports action route.
Location Towards the middle of the wall. Right of Hungry, Hungry Hobos, and to the left of Tin Roof Sunday.
Protection 9 bolts, 2 bolt fixed biner anchor.
Dean Hoffman on Sweet Back, and Ellie cleaning up ...
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BETA PHOTO: Sweet Back tackles the arete.
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 9, 2012
| I would have fallen off this thing if JJ hadn't given me some clues. It is a fun climb. Thanks for a fun day JJ. |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 9, 2012
| Yes, dacite can be a tricky stone, and you tend to miss a lot first go. But hats off to a sports action filled ascent! Now I might have to do that middle line... |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 4, 2012
| I added a couple bolts to this line today. Should make it a bit more user friendly. |
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