Sweet Back Direct
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Dean Hoffman on Sweet Back, and Ellie cleaning up ...
Sweet Back Direct is a fantastic new variation to the classic Sweet Back, and is both a hair easier and a pinch less technical.
After bolt #5, and just below the bulge, move hard right on somewhat hidden holds. Moving up to the roof is straight forward enough, and eventually you'll gain a very cool pinch/crimp/jug at the lip of the roof. A series of distinct, vertical water runnels above the roof will test your lay backing skills and shoulders alike. If you are clever with your toes at this point, you'll be rewarded with two very unique finger buckets, and the end of the hard climbing. Clip one last bolt and scamper up good holds to the anchors.
If you have sampled Sweet Back, and been rebuffed at the thoughtful/committing crux arête, then you may enjoy the Direct a little more. It is more straight forward, but just as pumpy, and just as committing as the regular route. And by committing, I mean committing to the movement, not that you're going to take hell whipper... It also stands out for the grade at this quaint crag.
Just down from Mulligan Stew.