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 ADVANCED
Midland
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Lay of the Land S 
Nameless Tower, The T,S 
Sweet and Sticky S 
Violent Phlegms S 

Sweet and Sticky 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 491
Submitted By: Andrew Cheung on May 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Juggy start on the right side of an arete follows up balancy moves on the arete itself, finishing with thin footwork on the face supplemented by a slopey rail formed by the arete. Unique in that it begins in the shade and finishes in the sun; the difficulty ramps up once you move out of the shade.

Super comfortable belay seat in the crook of the burnt out tree.

While probably not run out by most standards, relatively to the rest of the routes at Exit 32, the gap between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is sizeable--don't fall, you'll probably hit the ground (not sure why it's this way...).

Unfortunately, viewable from the hiking trail, so you may receive a running commentary of your climb from passersby.

Location 

Follows the obvious arete coming from the burnt out tree. Scramble up to the belay (careful, it's mossy and slick). Rap or lower off the chains.

Protection 

9 bolts plus chains at top


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By Ralph Bodenner
Aug 7, 2006

Small cams and nuts protect the runouts between bolts. Can lower with a 50m rope from the second anchor.