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 ADVANCED
(4) Gold Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyond the Glory S 
Chaos T,S 
Dirty Jugs S 
Ganesh  T 
Kung Fu S 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Screaming for Change T,S 
Siddhartha T 
Sweeping Beauty T,S 
Whine and Cheese T 

Sweeping Beauty 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA September 2005 Kevin Evanson, Jaime Bohle
Season: Dry
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Colin Parker on Aug 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

This route starts left of Carrots for Everyone to the right of a large block that is about 25' off the ground (the top of this block is the 'Room for a View' ledge). The section up to the ledge is a bit blocky and dirty but pretty easy terrain. Above the ledge it takes the line of bolts on a slightly overhanging face for an additional 60 feet to a pair of bolted anchors. This section is consistent, pumpy and some of the best 5.10 climbing at Ozone, IMO.

Location 

See Above

Protection 

8 QD's. There are no bolts until above the ledge so you may want to bring a 1-2" piece or two for the start.


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By another Chad
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

One can connect the first half of Dirty Jugs with Sweeping Beauty, making a fully bolted route. Like many of the climbs at Ozone, a 50m rope will not get you to the ground.

Chad
By Kev
Aug 22, 2011

This climb is 10.b if not 10.a. I am not sure who is upgrading them.
By another Chad
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Kevin, you're a stud if you think this thing is a 5.10a!


Chad
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The only committing move getting up to the ledge cannot be protected with anything nearby. Even if you did, it would have to be with a long runner, or the rope drag would be terrible. I would second the idea of doing the first half of Dirty Jugs as the primary approach for this route.
By Kev
Jul 3, 2014

For surely not 10.c
By Kev
Aug 13, 2014

I have added a bolt on the first pitch or lower half of this climb. No more ground fall potential.