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 ADVANCED
(4) Gold Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyond the Glory S 
Chaos T,S 
Dirty Jugs S 
Kung Fu T,S 
Masterpiece Theatre T,S 
Screaming for Change T,S 
Siddhartha T 
Sweeping Beauty T,S 

Sweeping Beauty 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FFA September 2005 Kevin Evanson, Jaime Bohle
Season: Dry
Page Views: 518
Submitted By: Colin Parker on Aug 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This route starts left of Carrots for Everyone to the right of a large block that is about 25' off the ground (the top of this block is the 'Room for a View' ledge). The section up to the ledge is a bit blocky and dirty but pretty easy terrain. Above the ledge it takes the line of bolts on a slightly overhanging face for an additional 60 feet to a pair of bolted anchors. This section is consistent, pumpy and some of the best 5.10 climbing at Ozone, IMO.


Location 

See Above


Protection 

8 QD's. There are no bolts until above the ledge so you may want to bring a 1-2" piece or two for the start.



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By another Chad
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

One can connect the first half of Dirty Jugs with Sweeping Beauty, making a fully bolted route. Like many of the climbs at Ozone, a 50m rope will not get you to the ground.

Chad

By Kev
Aug 22, 2011

This climb is 10.b if not 10.a. I am not sure who is upgrading them.

By another Chad
Jun 8, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Kevin, you're a stud if you think this thing is a 5.10a!


Chad

By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The only committing move getting up to the ledge cannot be protected with anything nearby. Even if you did, it would have to be with a long runner, or the rope drag would be terrible. I would second the idea of doing the first half of Dirty Jugs as the primary approach for this route.

By Kev
Jul 3, 2014

For surely not 10.c