Sweeney's Special 

Sweeney's Special is a great extension to Texas Sucks. Belaying beneath Sweeney's may be hazardous to the belayer's health, and a 60m rope will get you safely back down to the ground.

"One or both of the short overhanging fingercracks"??? Unless you have a 7 ft wingspan I think you have to pick one or the other. I got on the left one and found it move-for-move harder than stargazer- though a MUCH shorter crux. Great splitter, but too bad the anchor was placed another 20 ft after the quality ends....

Climbing well is all about footwork, not wingspan. Sweeney's Special is typically done using both cracks. If you found poor quality on this route, you were probably off route.

It's a quality crack for sure. But that's why the anchor should be right after the splitter ledges out, not after another 20 ft of loose 5.8.

I guess what really sucks about this route is the fact that some douchebag chopped the bolts Ian placed going up that stellar looking, green arete. That would've been a classic finish to this sweet line.

Let's forget about Contortionist and rebolt that arete!

I suppose that if the route had been done in the modern era, it may have stopped at the ledge, but back in the day, it was cool to take a route as far as one could climb- especially if you could get to the top. But if the whole place was developed in the modern era, it would only be a bunch of sport routes, eh?

Really like this climb... did it today... 6'5" wingspan enables the use of both cracks ;) Oh! and I dug the extra 20 ft. Just to max it out. Word.

Ok, Kevin, good job on genetics, aha. Did it today, used just the left, and I'd call it maybe 12 a or b. Sick crack, though!

Funny how the photo of Sam shows him clearly using both cracks... I think he might be all of 5'10" as well :)