Swedish Britfast Crack
|192 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from close to the base of the Obediah f...
Nice and fun obscure climb.
Not your typical Overlook climb.
I don't recall this being all that hard but it's probably for the experienced 5.10 leader because I seem to recall some run out on the arete and possibly some tricky pro (opposition, etc...)
My recollection (hey, it was a long time ago...) is that the face is easier than it looks and the roof up high is a bit exciting.
It's similar in nature to Sin Ropa but easier (I think.)
Named in honor of Brit, a Swedish gynecologist traveling through the states. Mark brought her and her partner home to the now burned down climber's house south of the old Alpineer.
I think we might have put up Sexual Deviations on the same day in honor of our young and frustrated losses.
I doubt this has had very many ascents so it would be a good one for a repeat write up.
Just to the right of the Obediah corner is an arete with holds and thin cracks leading up.
Climb the arete and exit out the corner right of Sexual Deviations.
See the beta photo.
Note, route shown is approximate on the face.
Standard Overlook rack.
Don't forget, I climbed a lot with Grossman so my standard rack may be 3x the size of yours, so even though there weren't all that many placements to be had, we typically had the nut that would fit.
We didn't have TCU's, ball things, etc... so often made do with some odd nut stacks, nests, oppo, etc... I only point this out so no one gets up on one of these odd ball routes and feels sandbagged. This thing could also just sew up, because frankly, I have only vague fugual state memories of the climb.