Swedish Britfast Crack 5.10 PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Davidson, Mark Force, Spring 1979 |
| Season: | Stnd Overlook season (year round) |
| Submitted By: | Paul Davidson on Oct 30, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from close to the base of the Obediah f...
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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>
ACCESS NOTE: Please note that the forest service has restricted climbing for any routes past the area of Red Wagon (just left of the Trinity Cracks) due to tourist safety. Local access groups are working to get this restriction lifted.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Nice and fun obscure climb.
Not your typical Overlook climb.
I don't recall this being all that hard but it's probably for the experienced 5.10 leader because I seem to recall some run out on the arete and possibly some tricky pro (opposition, etc...)
My recollection (hey, it was a long time ago...) is that the face is easier than it looks and the roof up high is a bit exciting.
It's similar in nature to Sin Ropa but easier (I think.)
Named in honor of Brit, a Swedish gynecologist traveling through the states. Mark brought her and her partner home to the now burned down climber's house south of the old Alpineer.
I think we might have put up Sexual Deviations on the same day in honor of our young and frustrated losses.
I doubt this has had very many ascents so it would be a good one for a repeat write up.
Location Just to the right of the Obediah corner is an arete with holds and thin cracks leading up.
Climb the arete and exit out the corner right of Sexual Deviations.
See the beta photo.
Note, route shown is approximate on the face.
Protection Standard Overlook rack.
Don't forget, I climbed a lot with Grossman so my standard rack may be 3x the size of yours, so even though there weren't all that many placements to be had, we typically had the nut that would fit.
We didn't have TCU's, ball things, etc... so often made do with some odd nut stacks, nests, oppo, etc... I only point this out so no one gets up on one of these odd ball routes and feels sandbagged. This thing could also just sew up, because frankly, I have only vague fugual state memories of the climb.
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