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Swedish Britfast Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Mark Force, Spring 1979
Season: Stnd Overlook season (year round)
Page Views: 278
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Oct 30, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from close to the base of the Obediah f...

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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Nice and fun obscure climb.
Not your typical Overlook climb.

I don't recall this being all that hard but it's probably for the experienced 5.10 leader because I seem to recall some run out on the arete and possibly some tricky pro (opposition, etc...)

My recollection (hey, it was a long time ago...) is that the face is easier than it looks and the roof up high is a bit exciting.

It's similar in nature to Sin Ropa but easier (I think.)

Named in honor of Brit, a Swedish gynecologist traveling through the states. Mark brought her and her partner home to the now burned down climber's house south of the old Alpineer.

I think we might have put up Sexual Deviations on the same day in honor of our young and frustrated losses.

I doubt this has had very many ascents so it would be a good one for a repeat write up.


Location 

Just to the right of the Obediah corner is an arete with holds and thin cracks leading up.

Climb the arete and exit out the corner right of Sexual Deviations.

See the beta photo.
Note, route shown is approximate on the face.


Protection 

Standard Overlook rack.

Don't forget, I climbed a lot with Grossman so my standard rack may be 3x the size of yours, so even though there weren't all that many placements to be had, we typically had the nut that would fit.

We didn't have TCU's, ball things, etc... so often made do with some odd nut stacks, nests, oppo, etc... I only point this out so no one gets up on one of these odd ball routes and feels sandbagged. This thing could also just sew up, because frankly, I have only vague fugual state memories of the climb.



Photos of Swedish Britfast Crack Slideshow Add Photo
The protection IS tricky.
The protection IS tricky.
Don't think I could have done the start without a little help from the tree.
Don't think I could have done the start without a ...
Comments on Swedish Britfast Crack Add Comment
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By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Jun 9, 2013

Today, I got on the start of this climb, thinking it was Burger King--based on the description from the AZ Falcon Guide circa 1999. In that guide, Burger King is listed as 5.9-, so it seemed feasible, but somewhat unlikely. Using the tree, I got established on the overhung start, then stepped up and started placing tricky nut placements--including two #6 brassy offsets (DMM). I continued up the arete until it eased off, and I finished on the 5.7 easy out as shown in the picture above. My estimate for this bottom section is 5.9 at least, with some fancy footwork and gear. Very fun Burger King variation! ;-)

By Paul Davidson
Feb 4, 2014

Rule #1, never trust a Falcon guide. Never trust any guide that purports to cover an entire state in one book. No offense to Stewart and others but you can't get details about obscure routes correct in a guide like that. Hard enough to get major routes placed correctly. Odd to even have a route like this in a Falcon guide.
My recollection is that if you skip the tree, you'll think it's at least 5.9 :-)
Glad to see a repeat write up. Guess the advantage to a Falcon guide is that it can send you places you might not otherwise choose to go. And get an adventure in the deal.