Mountain Project: Climbing Indian Creek

For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one.

Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.

I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is immediately to the right.

Protection

I would say doubles in sizes of yellow aliens through red camalot, with triples of #.5 and #.75 camalots. Bring a green alien or blue TCU for the finish.

Comments on Swedin-Ringle

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 26, 2012

By Max Schon
Jan 13, 2004
rating: 5.12b

I tr'd the extension this weekend. I believe its called Aire-Sweden (.13b). The crux is ultra-desparate arete slapping while crimping the crack. I think its only seen one ascent. Definitely worth tr'ing. We rigged the tr from three strikes.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 15, 2004

If I'm not mistaken, the FA of the Air-Sweden extension was climbed by the late "Pat" who was killed in a tragic f*ck-up in the Needles.

By Max Schon
Apr 20, 2004
rating: 5.12b

Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a

Great line that gets progressively harder - the finger stacks get you pumped for the crux at the top. Good gear the whole way so go for it!

By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Nov 7, 2006

i got a cam in at the last good ringlock 15' below the anchor and just went for it. i imagine it would be quite difficult to place gear near the top.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 1, 2009

I'm able to get gear in when the crack tapers down to fingers before the anchor. There are actually decent openings in the crack for your feet there as well. I would not be too excited about running it out 15-feet to the anchors. Most admirable though!

By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 5, 2011

just curious if any one has climbed rednekk justice in escalante canyon these 2 climbs are a simular size with comparable steepness, and i was curious if they climbed simular depite rednekk being called 10 plus

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Mar 6, 2011

Quite a bit different than rednekk. The meat of rednekk is reletavly short and its stout climbing between small pod features. This one is more consistantly splitter without the pods and changes sizes a bit more. To me they don't climb similar, and even though rednekk is 10+ I bet I'll send swedin first.

By slim
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.12-

to me they feel pretty similar. swedin might be a touch harder.

By Dylan Weldin
From: Durango, CO
Dec 9, 2011

Sam takes a ride on this fine splitter

By blake green
Nov 26, 2012

Took a .5, black metolius, #1 C4, 2 .75, and .5 or red metolius. The crux for me was definitely just the sustained .75 section, as the locks are way sinker at the crux.

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Swedin-Ringle

5.12-

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