Near the crux. You can see three strikes your out...
For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one.
Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.
I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is immediately to the right.
I would say doubles in sizes of yellow aliens through red camalot, with triples of #.5 and #.75 camalots. Bring a green alien or blue TCU for the finish.
By Max Schon Jan 13, 2004 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
I tr'd the extension this weekend. I believe its called Aire-Sweden (.13b). The crux is ultra-desparate arete slapping while crimping the crack. I think its only seen one ascent. Definitely worth tr'ing. We rigged the tr from three strikes.
If I'm not mistaken, the FA of the Air-Sweden extension was climbed by the late "Pat" who was killed in a tragic f*ck-up in the Needles.
By Max Schon Apr 20, 2004 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Great line that gets progressively harder - the finger stacks get you pumped for the crux at the top. Good gear the whole way so go for it!
I'm able to get gear in when the crack tapers down to fingers before the anchor. There are actually decent openings in the crack for your feet there as well. I would not be too excited about running it out 15-feet to the anchors. Most admirable though!
just curious if any one has climbed rednekk justice in escalante canyon these 2 climbs are a simular size with comparable steepness, and i was curious if they climbed simular depite rednekk being called 10 plus
Quite a bit different than rednekk. The meat of rednekk is reletavly short and its stout climbing between small pod features. This one is more consistantly splitter without the pods and changes sizes a bit more. To me they don't climb similar, and even though rednekk is 10+ I bet I'll send swedin first.
By slim Administrator Mar 7, 2011 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
to me they feel pretty similar. swedin might be a touch harder.
If your fingers fit it just right, then the crux might only be the sustained stacks. The thin section at the top took awesome finger locks for me, and the hardest part of clipping was just the lack of feet.