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Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3 Strikes You're Out T 
Air Swedin T 
Battle of the Bulge T 
Big Baby, The T 
Black Corner T 
Cal and Andy's Route T 
Cave Route T 
Christmas Tree T 
Crack Attack T 
Digital Readout T 
Disco Machine Gun T 
Dogs in Space T 
Down in Albion T 
Elbow Vices T 
Fat Boy Slim T 
Hole in the Wall T 
Jagged Wedge, The T 
Jane Fonda's Total Body Workout T 
Last Battle, The T 
Like a Prayer  T 
Mayes, The T 
Moon Also Rises, The T 
Mystery Machine, The T 
Our Piece of Real Estate T 
Pigs In Space T 
Quarter of a Man T 
Railroad Tracks T 
Ruby's Cafe T 
Ruins Crack T 
Swedin-Ringle T 
Think Pink T 
Unknown w/ 2 bolt RF corner T 
Unnamed 5.10 LF flake in deep corner T 
Unnamed 5.11 (Just R of the Mayes) T 
Unnamed 5.11- just L of Last Battle T 
Unnamed RF hands to tips T 
Warm-up T 


YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle
Page Views: 10,320
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Nov 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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Near the crux. You can see three strikes your out...


For everyone (myself included) who thinks Indian Creek ratings are generally soft...well, jump on this one.

Though the crux is short, it is quite desperate and comes at you right at the end where the splitter crack pinches to tips with no feet. Just try clipping the anchors without grabbing them! The crux section is short enough though that it's just as easy to lead and aid the finish if you need to.

I've heard you can set a toprope on this by swinging over from "3 Strikes You're Out" which is immediately to the right.


I would say doubles in sizes of yellow aliens through red camalot, with triples of #.5 and #.75 camalots. Bring a green alien or blue TCU for the finish.

Photos of Swedin-Ringle Slideshow Add Photo
Bill Grasse thinking warm thoughts while boxing shadows.
Bill Grasse thinking warm thoughts while boxing sh...
Oct 2005
Oct 2005
Air Swedin
Air Swedin
Almost there...
Almost there...
Damien on Swedin-Ringle
Damien on Swedin-Ringle
Me on my redpoint
Me on my redpoint
Hannah takes a burn on Swedin-Ringle
Hannah takes a burn on Swedin-Ringle
Anonymous Coward being pulled to the top of the Swedin-Ringle route.
Anonymous Coward being pulled to the top of the Sw...
Dave Madera on Swendin Ringle.  Montrail Splitter Camp.  OCt 2006
Dave Madera on Swendin Ringle. Montrail Splitter ...
Swedin-Ringle from the base
BETA PHOTO: Swedin-Ringle from the base
Konstantin tries hard on Swedin Ringle.
Konstantin tries hard on Swedin Ringle.
Robbie, NAU crusher
Robbie, NAU crusher
Aaron Miller at the "locks"
Aaron Miller at the "locks"
Robbie, young gun.  there is a Russian dude not wearing pants just out of frame.  I am not making this up.
Robbie, young gun. there is a Russian dude not we...

Comments on Swedin-Ringle Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 26, 2012
By Max Schon
Jan 13, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I tr'd the extension this weekend. I believe its called Aire-Sweden (.13b). The crux is ultra-desparate arete slapping while crimping the crack. I think its only seen one ascent. Definitely worth tr'ing. We rigged the tr from three strikes.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 15, 2004

If I'm not mistaken, the FA of the Air-Sweden extension was climbed by the late "Pat" who was killed in a tragic f*ck-up in the Needles.
By Max Schon
Apr 20, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Placing gear on this climb is strenuous; I would recommend the following, in order: one yellow alien (or two if you're paranoid about falling on a single one); one #2 Friend; two .75 camalots; one .5 camalot; and one more yellow alien or .4 camalot; a green alien to aid the last move if you can't clip the chains.
By C Miller
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Great line that gets progressively harder - the finger stacks get you pumped for the crux at the top. Good gear the whole way so go for it!
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Nov 7, 2006

i got a cam in at the last good ringlock 15' below the anchor and just went for it. i imagine it would be quite difficult to place gear near the top.
By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 1, 2009

I'm able to get gear in when the crack tapers down to fingers before the anchor. There are actually decent openings in the crack for your feet there as well. I would not be too excited about running it out 15-feet to the anchors. Most admirable though!
By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

Kjell Swedin and Ray Ringle
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Mar 5, 2011

just curious if any one has climbed rednekk justice in escalante canyon these 2 climbs are a simular size with comparable steepness, and i was curious if they climbed simular depite rednekk being called 10 plus
By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Mar 6, 2011

Quite a bit different than rednekk. The meat of rednekk is reletavly short and its stout climbing between small pod features. This one is more consistantly splitter without the pods and changes sizes a bit more. To me they don't climb similar, and even though rednekk is 10+ I bet I'll send swedin first.
By slim
Mar 7, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

to me they feel pretty similar. swedin might be a touch harder.
By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Dec 9, 2011

Sam takes a ride on this fine splitter

By Blake Allen Green
Nov 26, 2012

If your fingers fit it just right, then the crux might only be the sustained stacks. The thin section at the top took awesome finger locks for me, and the hardest part of clipping was just the lack of feet.