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Bohuslan 
Osby 

Sweden 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Todd M. Miller on Aug 7, 2010

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Climbing in the Swedish countryside.

Description 

When you think of climbing in Scandinavia, Sweden probably isn't the first place that comes to mind. Neighboring Norway, with its legendary mountains and fjords, gets all of the attention.

Sweden does, however, offer some excellent climbing. You may not find the sweeping walls that you would find in Norway, but there is some excellent cragging in Sweden. The area of Bohuslan offers some of the finest trad cragging anywhere.

The locals are super friendly, and the prices are a relief to anyone who has spent time in Norway. The next time you are climbing in Scandinavia, check out Sweden - you might be pleasantly surprised by what you find.


Getting There 

There are a number of ways to get to Sweden. For climbers wishing to visit Bohuslan, Gothenburg (or Goteborg) is likely the most convenient airport.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sweden:
Jungfrun   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   Bohuslan : Valserod
Aterkomsten   5.8-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Galgeberget : Stora Galgeberget
Pekkas Diplomtur   5.9     Trad   Hallinden : Terassväggen
Jarnkaminen   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Bohuslan : Valserod
Vilskudd   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Bohuslan : Valserod
Mallorol   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Bohuslan : Haller
Prismaster   5.10c     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   Hallinden : Stora Vaggen
Bagatellen   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Galgeberget : Stora Galgeberget
Tor Line   5.11     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Bohuslan : Haller
Masken   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Galgeberget : Lilla Galgeberget
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Featured Route For Sweden
The Mallorol Wall.  The route "Mallorol" follows the crack system up to the obvious left facing flake, then up and right to the top of the wall (belayer visible at the top of the route). <br /> <br />The climber in turquoise on the route to the left is on "Chapman", which shares a start with "Mallorol".

Mallorol 5.10b  International : Europe : ... : Haller
An absolutely beautiful route, and one of the "four classic 6-" routes of Bohuslan. The climbing unfolds in a beautiful way on this route, and the position on the clean wall is great.Start in the corner and climb up easy terrain to a big ledge at the base of the clean wall. Near the left edge of the big ledge, climb up over the bulge onto the main wall and gain the crack system. Continue up the crack, then break off and follow the crack system to the right when possible and climb up towards t...[more]   Browse More Classics in International