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Sweat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Stuart Chamberlain, Richard Meining
Page Views: 4,896
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Sep 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
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BETA PHOTO: Another view of Sweat in the late afternoon.

Description 

Sweat is a short, but stellar, crack climb located where the blue climbers trail hits the wall. It is easy to spot as an arching crack that ends at a ledge with a small group of trees. The climb starts out as a fist crack (#3 Camalot), narrows to hands (the best part of the route), and then ends as a finger crack below the anchors. Just below the anchors are two cracks that you can use to get around a large hanging flake. You can either use the anchors at the ledge (bolts with chain links), or continue to a second set (rap anchors) located up and slight right from the ledge. To descend, rap with a single rope back to the base. Easily one of the best 5.7s in the park.

Protection 

Light trad rack with cams to a #3 Camalot. Choice of two 2-bolt anchors at the top.


Photos of Sweat Slideshow Add Photo
Camalot #3 needed for first placement above the li...
BETA PHOTO: Camalot #3 needed for first placement above the li...
Sweat
Sweat
Orlando Teran in the thick of it
Orlando Teran in the thick of it
Sweat
Sweat
Rod TR'ing Sweat.
Rod TR'ing Sweat.
TR on Sweat
TR on Sweat

Comments on Sweat Add Comment
Show which comments
By ben bryan
From: Wichita Falls, TX
Dec 17, 2006

Awesome early trad lead. Pro is easy, and route fun. Buzzards roost in the area...
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 29, 2007

Not to be confused with the "Buzzards roost" area...

but yeah, there's a lot of poop
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 11, 2009

that is a sick lookin crack
By Jennifer Barton
From: Champaign, IL
Dec 23, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you don't have "man hands" to make it a fist crack, the first 10 feet is a more interesting offwidth. A #4 Camalot can provide some comfort in the first 5-10 feet of the crack. This was my favorite route of the trip.
By Jeremy Bauman
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 28, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

First trad lead many years ago. I remember being so scared that I placed a piece every 2ft or so. I did it last year and placed maybe 4-5 pieces.
By Doug Meneke
May 10, 2013

The first 10-20 feet is offwidth. However, you can layback and "sit" on the rock. You can also reach in DEEP, and there is a bottom to the crack that has a lip. A good, fun solo, too.

This is also the area for easy access to the ledge up top to setup/rap-down French Route/Fly on a Windshield, Stranger than Friction, Texas Radio, and other backside classics.
By William Kramer
From: Kemmerer, WY
Apr 22, 2014

Fun crack, starts as OW and ends as finger, protects easy, used a #3 camalot, a #2 camalot, and a #12 stopper. Will suggest going to anchors for Pro Choice on the right, anchors on the left you have to jump cracks under that overhanging rock on top, then over to a little ledge. Easy, just don't like it cause I hit my head on thus stated rock.
By DGraham
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

first trad lead a while back. IDK why but this crack kicks my ass every time, I think it's the off-width part. You can easily use a #4 BD camalot to protect the early fall. Gets smaller as you go. bring runners, it traverses more then it looks.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Sep 18, 2014

Fantastic easy crack!! As mentioned above, the wider section in the beginning can be overcome by getting in deep and using the flake/layback, but why not hone your technique on this low angle beauty? Especially for aspiring crackheads-- lead it, set a TR and work it. Get a feel for fists and then slam some jams!