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King Otto's Castle
Routes Sorted
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Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) T 
Bridge, The T 
Casino Royale T 
Date Queen T 
Don Genaro Crack T 
Goodbye Mr. Bond T 
Leaving Las Vegas T 
Panama Red TR 
Phelp's Chevrolet T 
Plain But Good Hearted T 
Shaken Not Stirred T 
She Is Helga, I Am Sven T 
Sweat Band T 
Sweat Pants T 
Tarawassie Wiggle T 
Uncle Len's Pot Farm S 

Sweat Band 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 1,632
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002

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Description 

Unprotected but easy climbing up a slab leads to a break and the first bolt about 30' up where the angle steepens and the difficulties begin. A comitting stand-up move getting to the 3rd bolt is memorable as are the thin crux moves just below the 4th bolt, which is a tough clip. Once past the 4th bolt the climbing eases considerably and it's a cruise to the top.

Decent climbing on this but the bolt placements are less than ideal and falling at several spots on this route are best avoided. Two stars out of five.

Location 

Right side of the south face between Panama Red and Tarawassie Wiggle.

Protection 

6 bolts (all 3/8"), bolted anchor/rap (3/8", 1/2")


Photos of Sweat Band Slideshow Add Photo
A random climber strolling up "Sweat Band". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
A random climber strolling up "Sweat Band".
Photo ...
Brett raps the route.
Brett raps the route.
"Sweat Band" 1982. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Sweat Band" 1982.
Photo by Blitzo.
Monte Lewis (of New Richmond, WI.) on the lead just above the 2nd bolt.  February 5th 2004
Monte Lewis (of New Richmond, WI.) on the lead jus...
Sweat Band (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Sweat Band (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP

Comments on Sweat Band Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 3, 2012
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 14, 2002

A fairly good climb, but personally I prefer Goodbye Mr. Bond further left which offers better moves at the same grade.
By Woody Stark
Mar 12, 2003

I seldom feel a route in JT is overrated; however,I and my partner,Bill Briggs, both felt "Sweatband" should be rated 5.10a/b.
By Randy
Jun 7, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

10a/b sounds about right. Will not be 10c in next guide.
By Woody Stark
Dec 8, 2003

For what it's worth, I led it again a couple of weeks ago and went straight for the bolt at the crux instead of moving right and reaching out to clip with my left hand. It is most definitely a 10c if done this way. This may be why it was originally rated b/c. I have no idea what the immediate terrain beyond would be like because as I was reaching out to clip the rock goddess had another plan for me.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 25, 2004

Good route. Soft for 10c. Not memorable enough to warrant three stars. Goodbye Mr. Bond was more entertaining IMHO.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 28, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

cool climb!
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 29, 2004

The bolts on this route were replaced by me, and while it may have been efficacious to move certain bolts to better locations I chose not to and simply replaced them as they were. No bolts were added, simply replaced.
By Murf
Nov 29, 2004

Thanks Chris, that's about what I expected.
By Woody Stark
Nov 29, 2004

If Chris said he replaced it, he replaced it. Be that as it may, the times I led it, I placed a firm cam in the horizontal and clearly didn't notice the old bolt. I was probably to the right of it a bit. It's easy to see now because of the white chipped area around it. Locker and I both thought it odd. It's also about knee level above the crack. So put it on your death list Murf.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Dec 6, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I think for shorter sorts 10c fits.........
By Ryan Avery
Jan 26, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I wasn't impressed with this route at all. Interesting moves at times but I forgot it as soon as I rapped off. Good bye Mr. Bond is way better. Either way, the heckling tourons at the base really bug me anyway. Indian Cove is best saved for a week day with no boy scouts or other objectionable sorts yelling "Use your feet!" to thier fellow "climbers".
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 12, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

no way is this climb a bomb..........how in hell did you come to that conclusion Ryan A.?...........
By tony grice
Dec 24, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Sweat band is awsome at 10c. whoever added the last bolt needs a raise. great route. easy climbing to first bolt.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 28, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Don't let any of these guys fool you.....10c for sure. Easier than Pet or meat but solid for the grade. Shame on you Randy for downgrading. Just because it's bolted doesn't mean it's soft!

~Susan
By Randy
Oct 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Susan -- We've done this route several times, including last year. If you climb to the right of the bolts it is far easier than trying to climb up by them. While I understand Chris replacing the bolts were they were originally, they are not in the appropriate places for leading the route. It may have been rap bolted?
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 26, 2007

If you're really flexible and can high-step to your waist at the crux...maybe 10b, for stiff folks maybe 10c. More secure/less tenuous than most off-vertical Josh face routes of similar ratings. Couldn't really argue with either rating.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 1, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I would've given this 4 stars but for the approach slab which is a little out of character with the rest of the climb - hence marring the continuity/purity. But it's a wonderful face climb, nice and intricate, and quite steep at the top, and the rock is beautiful. I'm tall so 5.10b seems fair, but if you're shorter it's probably 5.10c.

Bolts 2 and 3 are in odd placements but perhaps the original placers wanted a straight line to avoid drag? I don't know. I'm not going to give any other beta though.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm 5'9, and I thought this felt 10c. It is definitely harder than Las Vegas to the right. The second clip is annoyingly out-of-reach from the obvious clip stance too. Great movement, despite the poor bolt placements.
By Justin Tomlinson
From: Monrovia, CA
Dec 3, 2012

Whatever, about all the grades and bolting. It's a great climb.