Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Will S on May 2, 2007 |
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Looking up from the start.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This short squeeze chimney, located just above and left of Oak Tree Flake, grows slightly more difficult the higher you climb and provides good practice for someone new to the wide. There are helper holds along the outside edge and face with a crux at a slight constriction where your hips may have to come out for a move. You can easily reach the top of the climb to set a TR by scrambling up from the left, this is also the downclimb although you could rap from trees at the top if desired.
Location The route begins after the initial 15' or so of the dirty/blocky chimney just left of the giant oak tree that marks the start of the Oak Tree Flake route. Climb the initial chimney and look up to the left for the obvious, clean, right facing squeeze. Descend by downclimbing through 4th class terrain to climber's left or rap off the trees.
Protection Solo or TR. A secure solo, #4 bigbro might work on lead, there are plenty of options for a TR anchor.
From the ground. Oak Tree Flake visible at right.
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| Comments on Swan Slab Squeeze |
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By Osprey From: ... Jan 1, 2010
| You get to stare right at the Steck-Salathe while digging out the chicken wings and heal-toe jams on this one! |
By Mark P Thomas From: Oakland Apr 5, 2011 rating: 5.6
| Led this yesterday. A questionable #6 Camelot works 1/4 of the way up the crack if you place it deep. A bomber microcam works in the horizontal seam on the left at about 3/4 of the way up. Although you can climb most of this on the face outside, if you actually stay in the Squeeze fairly deep it is very secure and doesn't seem runout. I don't think it would have felt any worse if I only placed the TCU and no Camleot. |
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