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Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

Swallow Tail 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jerry Klatt, 2011
Page Views: 1,112
Submitted By: aaron hope on Feb 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Climbers launching from the top of the 5.3 first p...

Description 

This is located just to the right of Lurch.

The first pitch is easy, 30 foot 5.4 scramble to a large ledge. There are two bomber black bolts with black chains that mark the beginning of the second pitch (you can see them from the ground).

The second pitch climbs fun knobby terrain terrain, mostly 5.7-5.8 with a distinct 5.9 crux. It starts off following a very small seam with knobs up and to the right. Follow the bolts to another set of anchors with chains (or continue to the top via easy 5.6 climbing protected by one more bolt). From anchor to anchor it's just at 100 feet.

Mostly protected by bolts, supplemented by the occasional gear placement. All in all, a well protected route. The initial 5.6 seam can be protected with a mirco cam 00 Purple C3. Above that there are placements for gear from 0.4 Grey Camalot to a #1 Red Camalot.

Note: you can easily reach the chains at the beginning of the second pitch by rapping from the top of Morticia with a 60 meter rope. Makes for a great double route combo.



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By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Mar 6, 2012

Was Aiden with Jerry on the first ascent? He was the one who told me about the route. I'd add him but I don't know his last name. Anyone?

By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 6, 2012

Aidan Maguire is his name.

By SirTobyThe3rd
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Soloed first pitch and led 2nd. Tricky to get in good pro at first if you do not have the right size (tiny). Climbing is really solid though. Well protected after that. Crux seemed to be the move around the bulge which has a bolt right before it and a spot for a #1 BD cam..although if you fall you will hit a ledge and it will hurt most likely. Great climb.