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 ADVANCED
Discovery Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 
Big Pucker, The T,S 
Broken Arrow S 
Buffalo Soldier T 
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 
Cleft, The T 
Cosmos S 
Dead Bird Crack T 
Entrance T,S 
Fat Lips T,S 
Fly By T,S,TR 
Jorgie's Crack T 
Lithium S 
Lost Horizons T 
Mammary Pump S 
Melvin S 
Nailbox Crack T 
Ordeal T 
Pistol Whipped S 
Plague T,S 
Portent T,TR 
Power Point S 
Racing Stripes T,S 
Stupendous Man T 
Swallow Crack T,S 
Trauma T 
Trial S 
Verdict (direct), The S 
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 

Swallow Crack 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dave and Phil Bircheff, 1965
Page Views: 4,122
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: John K leading Swallow Crack
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Description 

This is located un the middle of the east face of the discovery wall, uphill where the climbers path begins to flatten out. From the path, head up about 15 feet to a large open area, where you will find the bulge that leads to the Swallow Crack.

Start on a bulgy face that leads to a wide left faced crack on a slab where excellent hands and feet are available. There is certainly some rock that will eventually pull out on this route, so use caution! After the crack, move left to the bolt, and climb some class 4 rock that will lead you to the top of the Discovery Wall.

This route is about 90 feet long, and due to the leftward movement of the route, top roping this roue either requires some interesting directionals and a long rope, or some ballsy climbers. A fall on a top rope from the anchors will swing you about 50 feet left and crash you into the slabby section of Fly-By (5.9+), the next climb over.


Protection 

Bring some Friends for the crack, and you will find 2 pitons and a bolt along the way. Old pitons are not to be trusted however, so if you're uncertain, add some more pro!



Photos of Swallow Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Michael coming up Swallow Crack
Michael coming up Swallow Crack
Swallow Crack
Swallow Crack
Sean heading up Swallow Crack
Sean heading up Swallow Crack
Karl rapping off Discovery Wall after climbing Swallow Crack.
Karl rapping off Discovery Wall after climbing Swa...
Trans taking a moment to chalk up about halfway up Swallow Crack.
Trans taking a moment to chalk up about halfway up...
Swallow Crack
BETA PHOTO: Swallow Crack
Comments on Swallow Crack Add Comment
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By Karl Royer
Sep 11, 2003

This was my first "trad" climb. A single pitch, with good to great foot placements on the face of the crag/route. Some pro left by other climbers are in place with a couple of strategically placed bolts makes this an excellent place to practice trad climbing.

By Blitzo
Sep 25, 2006

Another OK route.

By Lisa E
Mar 29, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A fun route.

By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

You can rappel down from rap rings on the large boulder directly above this climb. A 60m rope reaches the ground with a few feet to spare.

By Matthew Geyer
Aug 11, 2008

A great crack for placing gear, two old pins that still appear bomber and a monster exit muffin...add to it all that in the summer the routes get afternoon shade, a big airy rap from the large boulder on top when it's done, everything one could ask for.

By Laws
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 19, 2009

This was my first outdoor climb, ever. The crack is generous and makes for a fun and quick route. Since you're using the crack most of the way up, you're not tapping on rock as much as other routes at Pinnacles. Still, beware falling rock - helmets are always handy. A great first-timer's climb.

By Eve8008
From: Santa Cruz, California
Jan 23, 2013

This was our first outdoor climb and first wall.
I recommend this to every outdoor beginner climber.
It wasn't too hard, but hard enough for me to proceed slowly and feel the rocks. You will be able to get comfortable on this rock.