Swallow Crack 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Dave and Phil Bircheff, 1965 |
| Submitted By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 13, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: John K leading Swallow Crack
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting
The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:
* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.
The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.
Signage has been posted at strategic locations.
Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is located un the middle of the east face of the discovery wall, uphill where the climbers path begins to flatten out. From the path, head up about 15 feet to a large open area, where you will find the bulge that leads to the Swallow Crack.
Start on a bulgy face that leads to a wide left faced crack on a slab where excellent hands and feet are available. There is certainly some rock that will eventually pull out on this route, so use caution! After the crack, move left to the bolt, and climb some class 4 rock that will lead you to the top of the Discovery Wall.
This route is about 90 feet long, and due to the leftward movement of the route, top roping this roue either requires some interesting directionals and a long rope, or some ballsy climbers. A fall on a top rope from the anchors will swing you about 50 feet left and crash you into the slabby section of Fly-By (5.9+), the next climb over.
Protection Bring some Friends for the crack, and you will find 2 pitons and a bolt along the way. Old pitons are not to be trusted however, so if you're uncertain, add some more pro!
Michael coming up Swallow Crack
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Sean heading up Swallow Crack
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Trans taking a moment to chalk up about halfway up...
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Karl rapping off Discovery Wall after climbing Swa...
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Swallow Crack
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| Comments on Swallow Crack |
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By Karl Royer
Sep 11, 2003
| This was my first "trad" climb. A single pitch, with good to great foot placements on the face of the crag/route. Some pro left by other climbers are in place with a couple of strategically placed bolts makes this an excellent place to practice trad climbing. |
By Blitzo
Sep 25, 2006
| Another OK route. |
By Lisa E
Mar 29, 2007
rating: 5.6
| A fun route. |
By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.6
| You can rappel down from rap rings on the large boulder directly above this climb. A 60m rope reaches the ground with a few feet to spare. |
By Matthew Geyer
From: Morro Bay
Aug 11, 2008
| A great crack for placing gear, two old pins that still appear bomber and a monster exit muffin...add to it all that in the summer the routes get afternoon shade, a big airy rap from the large boulder on top when it's done, everything one could ask for. |
By Laws
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 19, 2009
| This was my first outdoor climb, ever. The crack is generous and makes for a fun and quick route. Since you're using the crack most of the way up, you're not tapping on rock as much as other routes at Pinnacles. Still, beware falling rock - helmets are always handy. A great first-timer's climb. |
By Eve8008
From: Santa Cruz, California
Jan 23, 2013
| This was our first outdoor climb and first wall.
I recommend this to every outdoor beginner climber.
It wasn't too hard, but hard enough for me to proceed slowly and feel the rocks. You will be able to get comfortable on this rock. |
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