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Ranger Station Rock
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Swain In The Breeze T 
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Wall of 10,000 Holds T 

Swain In The Breeze 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain 1985
Page Views: 758
Submitted By: vincent L. on Feb 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Swain In The Breeze


Vogel gives the route 2 stars and gives a decent description of how to get there - it's about 200 feet right of Bush Crack. Start by climbing up a grovely crack until you can get to the main face. Clip a few bolts with no hangers until you can reach the upper part of the route that consists of climbing HUGE fun buckets to the top of this sweet formation. I loved the route and the view I got at the top. Climbing the huge buckets was fun too. A nice chill, out of the way route that you will NEVER find anyone on. 5.6 ...send it buddies!


4 bolts with no hangers. Medium size cams for the anchor.

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By Chris D
From: the couch
Apr 26, 2010

I think the initial crack up to the ledge would have been easier if I'd liebacked it, but wanted to get good gear, so climbed the awkward off-width with arm bars and foot cams. Some work.

Above the ledge this route somehow reminded me of the SW Corner of Headstone Rock. The hanger-less buttonheads make for good pro when you slide a small nut on them.

Fun route, and a good way to start the day.
By nkane
Feb 16, 2016

Sliding nuts over bolt studs adds some charm to this route. There are now bolts with rings on top; a 70m just lets you rap into the gully to climber's left.

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