Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Deep End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bathing With Jesus S 
Block Party S 
Chip Shot / Cheap Shot S 
Deep End, The S 
Dirty Sanchez S 
Improbability Drive S 
Mission Accomplished S 
Short One, The S 
Svengali S 
Swims With the Fishes S 

Svengali 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sven Krebs?
Season: All year if sunny
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Bryan Gilmore on Jun 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Tom E. on Svengali.

Description 

This is a great route, heavy on the stems! Stem up the obvious corner straight up to the imposing roof. Clip an intermediate anchor and clip 5 or 6 more bolts through the jungle gym roof to the upper anchor. Don't try and lower with a 60m rope, use the midpoint anchor or a 70m.

Location 

It is just past (100m) the mine shafts with the wood mining relics. Look for the big roof at the top of a nice corner.

Protection 

Two (2) handfuls of draws.

Per Highlander: 16 quickdraws plus something for the anchors.


Comments on Svengali Add Comment
Show which comments
By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

16 bolts, plus anchors. 1st bolt inside the slot is loose and needs to be tighten or replaced.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!