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 ADVANCED
Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake S 
Beak, The S 
Black Streak, The S 
Bob's Nob S 
Castlewood Capers S 
Cheesedick Soiree S 
Cobble Wobble S 
Horizontal Bop S 
Icerigger S 
Nob Job S 
Noodlers' Nightmare S 
Nose Job S 
Phalloid Void S 
Pit Viper S 
Pocket, The S 
Prarie Dog S 
Ruse, The S 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation S 
Sidewinder S 
Slot, The S 
Song of the Wood S 
Sub, The S 
Sun Cave Direct S 
Sun Cave Right S 
Svengali S 
Textured Landscape S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
Unsorted Routes:

Svengali 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Hanson, Sills, 1995
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 6, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: West face.

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Description 

This is the first route left of Wendell Spire. Svengali heads up the middle of the first buttress on alligator skin and good cobbles. It has an awkward first move. It is not my favorite climb here.

Protection 

Draws and a rope.


Photos of Svengali Slideshow Add Photo
Al moving up to the second overhang of Svengali.
Al moving up to the second overhang of Svengali.
Luke climbing Svengali.
Luke climbing Svengali.

Comments on Svengali Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sean O'Dell
Apr 29, 2002

IMHO, this stinking thing is every part of the 11a rating. The second of the 2 overhangs you must negotiate has all kinds of tempting cracks on top that LOOK positive until you actually try to pull up on them. I'm glad no one was taking a video of me humping and grunting up that son of a...
By tobias
From: CO
Dec 31, 2002

Yeah, but they're positive enough if you trust 'em and pull hard... I like this one. Kind of like one boulder problem stacked on top of another.
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 6, 2003

I also got shut down on the second overhang. I finally made it with a throw for the better holds above the sloppy crimpers. There used to be a small sandy ledge just under the second overhang. After I pulled through the overhang that ledge busted off and sent me scrapping back down the rock. Classic Castlewood! I've also pulled a couple of cobbles off the lower section. Just be heads up.
By Jason Velocity
Apr 29, 2003

I loved this climb, but ran into the same problem with rock blowing out on my. This may be a 5.10 this year, but will be a 5.12 by the time all the holds are gone.