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 ADVANCED
Diarrhea Dome - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Brown Eye, The T 
Explosive Diahrrea T 
Manly Dike, The T 
Svapada T 
Unsorted Routes:

Svapada 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon and Tom Atherton, December 1988
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: toddgordon on Jun 27, 2010

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Description 

The climb Svapada is one of my favorite first ascents and is an awesome and challenging climb in a beautiful setting. It rarely if ever gets done , which is a shame, because it really is a fantastic climb. It does have it's quirks; the start is sort of wierd, for you need to start WAY to the right, and then traverse in...which is funny. I placed a few pieces, traversed in, then before going up, I pulled the rope through, threw it down, then had a straight shot for the top without the rope drag, or doing the climb in 2 pitches. There is also a spot where you have to lieback up a steep flake for awhile with no pro, but the edge is huge and if you go fast it's not too bad, and only about 5.9 anyways. The rest of the climb is awesome, with great pro, interesting and challenging moves, and probably 2 sections which one might call a "crux". There is a dbl bolt station just before the top, so you can belay and still communicate and be in touch with the 2nd. I've done the climb twice, each time almost stopped at a different spot both times! If you climb 5.11 minus, treat yourself to an awesome adventure.

Location 

Left side of the So. Face of Diarrhea Dome

Protection 

QDs for 8 bolts, as well as sm to med pieces for supplementary pieces. I think there is a fixed stopper near the top too; maybe.


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Nov 16, 2013

Sanskrit for one's own position or rank