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Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 
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Suture Fancy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 31, 2005

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This is the crack system left of Dream Slate, that works left of the flake that you put an SLCD in for Dream Slate. It works through a slot in the roof layer and then angles right, past a tree and finishes within arm's reach of the chains.

The pre-roof crack is fun, just a bit dirty, but fun, and it protects well. The roof is also fun (not 5.9), but fun. I felt like 5.8. Above the roof, it gets dirty, rotten, easy, and almost no gear. Worth one ascent, no more, no less.


You can share Dream Slate's anchors. The gear for the route is standard. I used my #4 DMM, and mainly medium to large gear, but above the roof was bad placements, and all I got was a #2 Camalot (directly above the roof), and a BD micro-stopper above the tree.

Also, there are two souvenirs waiting to be fallen on: an old fixed ring and an angle that flexed when I touced it, both right below the roof.

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