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Suspension Bridge Arete
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Suspension Bridge Buttress
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Baby Duck T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Beginnings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Earl of Perth T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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GT Special T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hell Gates T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Howhard T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Limbo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oblivion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Suspense T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Suspension Bridge Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mike Harvey, 1956 |
| Page Views: | 818 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Russell on Sep 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
A sustained single pitch, starting up a pocketed line about 5m to the right of the arete. Climb the pockets straight up to a ledge running diagonally left towards the arete and follow this to a wide groove/depression running directly up. Some interesting moves involving stemming in the depression (protected by a good thread) gain the crux of the route. From there, either make a few moves left to the tree anchor around the arete or continue upwards to an alternative anchor at a metal post a few metres higher.
If descending from the tree, it is worth flicking the abseil rope back to around the right of the arete to avoid landing in a patch of brambles!
If descending from the tree, it is worth flicking the abseil rope back to around the right of the arete to avoid landing in a patch of brambles!
Location
Start from on top of the road tunnel, about 5m to the right of the arete, up a pocketed line. Descent is via abseil off a fixed anchor on a tree 30m up, or a metal post a few metres higher. A 60m rope will get you down from the tree, but double ropes are recommended if you're descending from the higher anchor.
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