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The Blob - East Face
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Surrealistic Pillar 

Surrealistic Pillar 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig Parsley, 1973
Season: shade after 10am
Page Views: 1,610
Submitted By: tony grice on Feb 13, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Susan on the entry moves.

Description 

A super route that's not often done. Go straight up to finish. Bring the rack - all of it. The route is around the corner and right from "Mamma Woolsey" up the striking black pillar. DO IT!


Protection 

Gear to 4"



Photos of Surrealistic Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Chris leading through the slot crux section.
Chris leading through the slot crux section.
"Surrealistic Pillar". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Surrealistic Pillar".
Photo by Blitzo.
bring the rack
bring the rack
ham
ham
me
me
Comments on Surrealistic Pillar Add Comment
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By Jeremy Werlin
Dec 31, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

An underground classic! I climb this one everytime I visit the park. Don't be intimidated, the Pillar climbs and protects nicely. I like a #5 camalot (green) for the initial slot (although it is not mandatory). Save some hand size/thin hand for the top.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 12, 2007

This thing is fantastic - truely a hidden gem right there in Hidden Valley Campground. This baby provides a bit of variety in the climbing from stemming to a small roof, maybe a hip scum in there. Super positive rock - taking excellent gear of a variety of sizes. Nuts, small brassies, and small to large cams.

Looking forward to doing it again and leading it.

Walked off the back side. From the top out go straight back then veer right, go right past a large block (or scramble down below it) down a slab and around the front of Buissonier. There may be other ways down but that one works.

Enjoy it....I did!

~Susan

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great route! Definitely a sleeping classic.

Expect lots of funky body English as you work your way through the various sections of this climb. I didn't find one particular area that was the crux, just lots of thought provoking moves - with a bit of a final pump at the end.

Gear was good, and always right where you need it.

I didn't do the straight-up finish (ran out of slings and didn't want the rope drag), but it looked OK and fairly protectable. The rock quality out there was somewhat dubious though....

Even without the variation finish, this climb is definitely one to tick.

Gear: Thin (I placed a large RP) to #3 Camalot. The top part, though it looks big, actually climbs more like a thin hands crack. Bring some long slings.

By Drewsky
Nov 9, 2008

The 'straight up' variation at the top is rather hard to protect; I recall using a large (#13) nut because the pods didn't like cams. Certain cams might fit. This size nut usually does not make it onto my rack. Rock quality is good except for a tipsy flake at the beginning of the top section.

By Richard Shore
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

IMO, this is the best route in the HVCG area. Strangely, I have never seen anyone climbing it.

Didn't find a need for anything bigger than a #3, and it was used for the anchor. Small stoppers provide excellent protection in many spots.

By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Make sure that you do the straight-up finish, as it certainly contains the best moves on the route, and goes at airy 5.9 with "thoughtful" pro. With the direct finish, 3 stars out of 4. Without, maybe only 1 or 2. Were the rock on this route more solid, it would be an undisputed classic.

Despite looking wide, I surprisingly ended up using nothing larger than a #.75 C4 on the route, including some C3's and RP's. Bring bigger stuff too though, as the anchor takes gear 1-4"