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Groove, The T 
Hemorroids in Flight T 
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 
Novitiate's Nightmare T 
Pillar of Society S 
Sinbad-Herbert T 
Surrealistic Pillar T 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 
Wild Turkey T 

Surrealistic Pillar Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lowe and Vives, 1969
Page Views: 8,538
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006

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Wade follows, ready for the hand crack.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right.

Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux.


Gear to 3"

Photos of Surrealistic Pillar Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Surrealistic Pillar Direct
Surrealistic Pillar Direct
Rock Climbing Photo: A good pitch to run laps on, when there are no cro...
A good pitch to run laps on, when there are no cro...
Rock Climbing Photo: thank god for dikes
thank god for dikes
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain Biking?
Mountain Biking?

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 10, 2015
By Greg Collins
Jul 14, 2006

A really fun alternative is to combine the starting crack of the 10a variation to SP and then traverse on a dike just below the (10d?) roof of the variation. Good pro (blue Camalot - extend!) before making the traverse and good pro after before committing to the strenuous crux moves going through the roof. Beats the run-out 5.6 or so knob slinging of the 10d variation (in my book) and the traverse is really straightforward for those around 6' tall. Despite not being one of the 3 versions - I think this is the most obvious line of all.
By Salamanizer
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 17, 2006

What 10d roof? There is no way any of those variations (including yours) is any bit harder than 10b. You're right though, the way you explain it is the most obvious line. However, it is one of the three variations (of four) that most people do. In fact, it's the variation most people do when they lead the direct....because it's got the best pro.
By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Cool Route!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 1, 2007

this is a fabulous crack pitch, a rarity at the leap! fun stemming start, thin traverse, roof pull to overhanging pumpy hands, what more can you ask for? If you like the hands section, do the first part of the sinbad herbert next.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun stemming and crack climbing at the bottom, tricky and steep off fingers crux to steep tight-hands crack.

Watch the rope drag when doing the traverse, extend your pieces.

Entering into the steep crack is definitely, no harder than .10b though. The rest of the crack above is probably .10a.

By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Would be 5.10 without all the dykes and jugs in and around the crack. Ditto for the variation.
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I don't think Chris Mac actually climbed this thing, cause he only gave it 4 of 5 stars in the SuperTaco. I simply cannot find the part of the route that deserves the one star deduction...

Most classic variation IMO is climbing the corner until a chalked dike and traversing right to the crack below the roof and pulling it to the chains.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Apr 30, 2015

What is the actual route? I never traversed anywhere in my attempt, just stayed in the corner on the left and got stymied by a crazy mantel I didn't have the sand to pull. My partner went right just below the roof to pull it up into the tight hands crack.
By Calder9
May 12, 2015

Absolutely fantastic pitch of crack climbing. Went up the crack all the way to the mini roof, then directly over right to the next crack. One of my favorite climbs at the Leap. Must do!
By Pavel Burov
Aug 17, 2015

There is a cool bouldery move after the piton.

Beta warning!

Cool high stepping, dropping knee, and reach left high. The right side pull jug is well chalked, thus it seems to be a popular move.

Is there anybody to clarify things - is this move an "original" route or yet another variation (it is easier to traverse to the right just below this move)?
By Colonel Mustard
Nov 10, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you hit a piton, you have bypassed (I believe) what is the most popular option, which is to climb just under the roof, traverse right, and then pull the steepest moves into the #1 size hand crack. The left variation that bypasses this below-the-roof traverse is probably a skosh easier than the variation I outlined. But whatever floats your dingy.

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