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Surrealistic Pillar Direct 
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Lowe and Vives, 1969
Page Views: 5,731
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
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thank god for dikes
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This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right.

Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux.


Gear to 3"

Photos of Surrealistic Pillar Direct Slideshow Add Photo
A good pitch to run laps on, when there are no crowds...
A good pitch to run laps on, when there are no cro...
Surrealistic Pillar Direct
Surrealistic Pillar Direct
Wade follows, ready for the hand crack.
Wade follows, ready for the hand crack.
Comments on Surrealistic Pillar Direct Add Comment
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By Greg Collins
Jul 14, 2006

A really fun alternative is to combine the starting crack of the 10a variation to SP and then traverse on a dike just below the (10d?) roof of the variation. Good pro (blue Camalot - extend!) before making the traverse and good pro after before committing to the strenuous crux moves going through the roof. Beats the run-out 5.6 or so knob slinging of the 10d variation (in my book) and the traverse is really straightforward for those around 6' tall. Despite not being one of the 3 versions - I think this is the most obvious line of all.

By Salamanizer
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 17, 2006

What 10d roof? There is no way any of those variations (including yours) is any bit harder than 10b. You're right though, the way you explain it is the most obvious line. However, it is one of the three variations (of four) that most people do. In fact, it's the variation most people do when they lead the direct....because it's got the best pro.

By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Cool Route!

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 1, 2007

this is a fabulous crack pitch, a rarity at the leap! fun stemming start, thin traverse, roof pull to overhanging pumpy hands, what more can you ask for? If you like the hands section, do the first part of the sinbad herbert next.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun stemming and crack climbing at the bottom, tricky and steep off fingers crux to steep tight-hands crack.

Watch the rope drag when doing the traverse, extend your pieces.

Entering into the steep crack is definitely, no harder than .10b though. The rest of the crack above is probably .10a.

By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Would be 5.10 without all the dykes and jugs in and around the crack. Ditto for the variation.